The sun filtered through the leaves of the rainforest canopy, blanketing the track in a green tinted shadow, as our four-wheel drive vehicle maneuvered across the sand dunes.  The inexperienced driver, one of the group of my new found friends, gripped the steering wheel tightly, desperately trying to keep us from getting stuck in the soft sand.  We had just started our three day, two night tour of Fraser Island, a beautiful, surprisingly lush sand island, off the eastern coast of Australia.  We had all met the previous afternoon, when we joined the self-guided tours that our hostel had offered.  Located in Hervey Bay, considered the gateway to Fraser Island, Koala Backpackers provides the four wheel drive vehicle, all the necessary camping equipment, all permits required for the island and  any new friends you may need to make a party of eight, all for the low price of AU$135 per person.  Food, gas and fun are up to the group.

Dedicated as a world heritage site, in 1992, Fraser Island, the world’s largest coastal dune system and sand island, boasts an amazing array of natural wonders.   Rainforests, as well as vast stretches of mangroves, cover most of the island.  Fresh water lakes are scattered throughout.  Huge cliffs of colored sand dominate sections of the coast, while endless beaches seemingly unfold for miles.

Our first stop was the highly acclaimed Lake McKenzie.  Not sure of what to expect, I jumped out of our vehicle and walked across the sand, which is so fine it actually squeaks when you walk.  The scene I found before me literally took my breathe away.    With the white sand at the bottom, the water of Lake Mackenzie was as crystal clear as any pool I had ever swam in.  The aqua marine waters shimmered in the morning sunlight, only turning a more royal blue as the lake got deeper.  Despite the fact we all wanted to jump into the water immediately, we remembered the ominous warning about dingoes.  Apparently, more cameras and small bags have been stolen by dingoes on the island then other people.  Although they are somewhat timid around adults, dingoes are not afraid to sneak up to unguarded objects (or small children for that matter), and steal them away.  Heading these warnings, we decided it would be frugal to leave at least one person with our stuff at all times.  We spent a few hours lounging at Lake McKenzie, all taking turns at gliding through the refreshing waters, nevertheless, as the sun reached its midday peak, we all new it was time to leave.  We had to drive all the way to the North side of the island, to Indian Head, where we were planning to camp for the night.

The driving was much easier when we reached the packed sands of the beach, although you must watch out for large trenches created by streams flowing from the center of the island to the ocean.  Our plan of attack was to cruise to the top of the island, in hopes of seeing the tiger sharks’ breeding ground at Indian Head, and then slowly work our way back south.  Due to the fact that the area off the coast of Fraser Island is the breeding ground for tiger sharks, it is advisable not to swim in the ocean.  Instead, you should splash around in one of the 40 or so lakes scattered throughout the island.

It took us most of the day to work our way up 75 Mile Beach to Waddy Point, our designated camp ground, just north of Indian Head.  We quickly set up camp, then headed down to peer over the cliff, in hopes of seeing tiger sharks doing whatever it is they do.  Unfortunately, the ocean was angry that day, incessantly smashing itself against the rocks below, destroying our ability to see into the waters.  Undeterred, we headed out to the Champagne Pools, which were formed by volcanic rock partially shielding the beach from the ocean, where we enjoyed a “bath” before heading back to camp to relax and enjoy the beer that we had ditched some of our camping equipment in order to bring.

The next morning, we packed up camp and began the trek back south, stopping first at the Cathedrals, a series of multi-colored sand cliffs that border the beach.  Just south, lays the Maheno shipwreck, one of the must-sees on the island.  Caught in an unseasonable winter cyclone in July of 1935, the S. S. Maheno found its permanent home on the eastern side of Fraser Island.  Although completely gutted, the shipwreck is an interesting look into history.  Hoping to beat the summer heat, we cruised down to Eli Creek, where you can hike several kilometers inland (we only hiked a little bit) and then float down the river back to the beach.  Although it would have been more fun with inner tubes, it was still nice to cool off in the clear waters as you slowly but surely drifted back to the ocean.

That night, we decided to camp on the beach, in hindsight, not the best decision.  The biting flies (most as large as quarters) swarmed in such numbers that I became obsessed with trying to kill them, as I defended my dinner from them, and was grateful when I could climb into my tent and go to bed.

On our third and final day, we drove down to Lake Wabby.  We parked our SUV on the beach, gathered some of our stuff, and hiked about a mile through the rainforest in order to reach the lake.  As we stepped out from under the canopy, it seemed as if we had stepped into a scene from Star Wars.  Sand dunes stretched as far as the eye could see, and I would not have been surprised if R2D2 and C3PO came trudging over the horizon.

The dunes ran straight into the lake, which was not crystal blue like Lake McKenzie, but a deep, dark green.  Swimming in the lake, I discovered that the green waters housed more marine life than McKenzie, as small fish nipped at my toes.

We spent the day swimming in the lake and sunning on the dunes, but sadly, our time was coming to an end.  Reluctantly, we all gathered up our stuff and hiked back through the forest to our vehicle, making it back to the port just in time to catch the last ferry off the island.

**All Photos by Sharon Miller

If You Go

Koala Backpackers

www.koala-backpackers.com

Hervey Bay

www.herveybaytourism.com.au

Fraser Island

www.fraserisland.net/

http://dkd.net/fraser/

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