Gorge Yourself in Greece: Exploring the Mainland

by Don Miller, Staff Writer

Robert Frost wrote in his classic poem The Road Not Taken:

“Two roads diverged in a wood, and I-

I took the one less traveled by,

And that has made all the difference.”

Typically tourists to Greece visit the Parthenon in Athens and perhaps a couple of islands such as Santorini and Mykonos.  Another Greece exists, however, one that is less traveled by, is off-the-beaten-path and it can make all the difference in your vacation.  Live Life Travel recently visited a couple of unique destinations we feel worthy of recommendation.  The first consists of several remote, hidden mountain villages where outdoor activities abound.  The second is situated among ancient monasteries perched precariously on the edge of towering pinnacles of rock overlooking the city of Kalampaka.

The directions to the first locale seemed easy enough.  Find Ioannina (the largest city in Northwestern Greece), head northwest past the airport on the only major highway and in about thirty minutes look for the large Vikos Gorge sign.  No problem until we reached an intersection with a multitude of signs indicating the way to numerous villages (there are 46 in the area) none of which was ours.  Several roads branched off in every direction.  We chose one, then another and finally a third with no success.  Darkness began to blanket the narrow, twisting mountain roads (with no guard rails) as we desperately continued our search for the tiny village of Koukouli.  Supposedly located in the Pindos Mountains in the Zagorohoria Region of Northwestern Greece only about an hours drive from the Albanian border, we could not find it.  Our directions had absolutely no correlation to the various road signs we had been passing for the last hour.  Everyone was hungry, exhausted, patience was becoming a rare commodity and tempers were on the verge of flaring.  What if we could not locate our village before nightfall?  What if we ran out of gas?  Would we be attacked by a crazed goat herder?  Fortunately, someone found the telephone number of Mr. Miltos Ritas (our contact) who was kind enough to provide directions of where to meet him and he drove us directly to our "lost village".

People generally visit this area of Greece for two reasons.  Mass tourism has yet to discover the Zagorohoria and therefore you can enjoy peace, quiet and a pristine natural environment.  Secondly, it is the location of Vikos Gorge.  Although not as massive, dramatic and overwhelming as the Grand Canyon, Vikos Gorge presents an excellent destination for the outdoor enthusiast.  At 900 meters deep and only 1100 meters wide, the Guinness Book of World Records states Vikos is the steepest gorge on the planet.  The most frequent activity in the area is the scenic, moderately difficult six hour hike through the gorge. 

One of the truly exciting aspects of travel is the unexpected.  As we followed Miltos up yet another mountain road, our initial impressions of Koukouli varied greatly.  Wade (Tara's boyfriend and the eternal optimist) was yelling "awesome" because it looked like a Hobbit Village from Lord of the Rings.  With the overcast darkening skies, the slate grey buildings and generally dreary appearance, I thought it resembled Dracula's lair and I crossed myself as I reluctantly left the protection of the car.  In this secluded outpost and our rigorous trip to get there, a blanket on the ground would have been welcome.  As Miltos showed us our accommodations, we were stunned.  The guesthouse was located in a 180 year old refurbished building.  There were only four guestrooms but they were spacious with large, comfortable beds and ensuite bathrooms (individual bathrooms are not a given in Europe).  The ceiling and floors were covered with hardwood.  The rooms appeared welcoming, homey and visually appealing.  We were ecstatic.  We later learned building regulations dictate that any renovations must be done using original construction methods and materials.  This protects the integrity of the local architecture and preserves many buildings that might fall into total disrepair and be lost to future generations.  Apparently this is a very old, hard and dirty building technique.  Many Greeks no longer possess the skills or the desire for such work and therefore much of the construction is done by immigrant Albanians.

After traversing the labyrinth of roads to get to Koukouli, dining became a major concern.  No commercial establishment of any type had been apparent for at least an hour.  Even if we had directions to somewhere to eat, how would we find our way back in the dark?  Would we plunge off a curving mountain road to disappear into a bottomless chasm?  Amazingly our culinary salvation was just fifty paces from our room.  A cobblestone path led to the only restaurant in town located in sort of a mini town square.  Unless the weather is a problem, seating is outside under the branches of a mammoth plane tree (like a giant oak).  Electra (our cook and waitress) offered a reasonably diverse menu and several wines.  The food and drink, the service and the outdoor atmosphere high in the mountains contributed to an excellent meal at a reasonable price.  The Greek salad and food were extraordinary.  Breakfast was included in the price of our rooms.  Alexandra (an older, non-English speaking German lady ) prepared the meal for us in the basement of the local schoolhouse.  It included toast and vanilla yogurt in which you could mix homemade jellies.  Juice, coffee and tea were also available.  The yogurt was  thicker and creamier than what we have in the States, maybe it was made from goat's milk but it was unbelievably delicious.  By the end of the trip, yogurt addiction became a major problem.

Due to the length of the hike and the remoteness of the area, it is wise to stay in one of the 46 villages scattered throughout the area the night prior to and following your hike.  We feel fortunate that  we discovered Koukouli but Kipi and Monodendri apparently have several decent guesthouses available. 

Monodendri seems to be the most common area to begin your foray into the Greek wilderness.  One of the most pleasant aspects of hiking in Northwestern Greece is the relatively small crowds.  We did not encounter another hiker for at least an hour and during the entire six hour walk, we probably only saw a total of 50 people.  The beginning of the hike was deceptively easy.  The trail wound gradually downhill on narrow switchbacks of dirt and gravel.  Someone made the comment, "If we finish too early, we can walk back".  That benign remark seemed reasonable at the time.  Do not underestimate the amount of water you need to carry and definitely bring a good sized lunch with plenty of snack bars or other energy foods.  According to the Let's Go Guide, 40 minutes into your hike you will arrive at a fork in the path (which we missed).  Turn right and an hour later you will arrive in the village of Kipi (which is quite close to Koukouli).  Turn left and you enter the gorge.  Several times during the hike you approach the riverbed which was fairly dry during May.  Wildflowers were plentiful as well as numerous picture taking opportunities.  Terrain varied from walking through flat woodlands near the river, climbing over rocks and boulders, tip toeing across scree, which is areas of fallen rock which are slippery and can be deceptively dangerous.  Staying on the left bank of the river, you can exit the trail at the village of Vikos.   The last 20 minutes approaching Vikos seemed extremely steep.  Or perhaps it was the lack of water and food but nevertheless it seemed like an eternity.  For totally exhausted hikers (like myself) the single taverna in town seemed like a mountainous oasis providing food and water.  Arrangements can be made to return you to your point of origin.

The next morning our group sadly left Koukouli.  Once again quoting Frost's The Road Not Taken:

 “Yet knowing how way leads on to way,

I doubted if I should ever come back.”

When leaving Koukouli, the nearby village of Kipi would be a worthwhile stop.  A little larger than Koukouli (but still tiny) the double and triple arched bridges remain Kipi's primary "claim to fame".  They are impossible to miss so get out of the car, walk around on the bridges and take a few pictures for the old scrapbook. 

Map distances are deceiving in Greece.  According to our map, the second special destination was only 120 miles due east of Koukouli yet it took a good three to four hours to drive.  Although the road was excellent, we were either slowed by the convoluted road winding through the mountains or by trucks and buses.  Despite the traffic obstacles, our adventurous group finally arrived in Kalampaka which happens to be the nearest city to Meteora and the famous monasteries.       

Even if religion, culture, history and ancient buildings are not your primary interest, Meteora can be taken in small doses and offers something that would appeal to every visitor.  In contrast to Koukouli where there were few choices of lodging, Kalampaka has numerous guesthouses, apartments and small hotels.  After reading our Let's Go Greece and searching the internet, we elected to stay at the Alsos House.  Obviously, many others did the same research because the Alsos House was close to capacity whereas many other guesthouses appeared empty.  We would highly recommend the Alsos House for three reasons:

The location places it literally at the base of the rocks.  A pathway meanders throughout the pinnacles of rock making the Alsos House very convenient.

The rooms are quite adequate with ensuite showers.  Small balconies overlook Meterora and at night the rocks are illuminated making a surreal sight.  The group kitchen with refrigerator is also available which is extremely important for keeping your water and wine cool.

Finally and most importantly, the owner Yiannis is one in a million.  He is friendly, knowledgeable and bends over backwards to please his guests.  Corresponding via e-mail prior to our trip, Yiannis stated he would take us on the secret monk's paths.  True to his word, late in the afternoon Yiannis and his friend John (owner of the Rex Hotel) led us on a thrilling three hour adventure. 

Initially our jaunt followed the main path through the rocks, but shortly Yiannis had to pound away overgrown vegetation with his walking stick to locate the "lost trail".  Our two guides assisted us in negotiating some heart pounding crevices as we scaled to the summit of one of the pinnacles.  Of particular interest were the wooden platforms suspended hundreds of feet in the air and totally exposed to the elements.  Apparently, misbehaving (whatever that means) monks were forced to stay there for days as penance for their sins.  We also hiked past abandoned monasteries.  In short, it was a hike few tourists to Meteora take and it was made all the more enjoyable by our colorful guides. 

We would be remiss if some history of the monasteries was not included.  A few monks began populating the Meteora rocks as early as the 11th century.  Initially, the early monastic communities began by those attempting to escape the temptations of the world (women).  Later they became Christian outposts to protect themselves from invading Serbians, Turks and others.  The first monks had to wedge wood into the crevices of the rock to assist in their climb to the top.  They must have been empowered by the "Holy Spirit" otherwise no one else would foolishly make the climb.

By the 14th century, the monks began to build Grand Meteron.  By the 16th century, there was a flourishing community of 24 monasteries.  Since that time the popularity of monastic life has gradually dwindled and today only six monasteries are in use.  Four are populated by monks and two are convents. If your time is limited, Grand Meteron is perhaps the one monastery to visit.  The old kitchen and several workrooms can be visited.  Visitors can also peak into a storage room where the skulls of departed brothers are stored on shelves.  The most interesting room was the chapel and frescos adorning the ceiling and walls.  Religious figures were being martyred in every imaginable way probably representing the demise of many religious figures or saints.  It was beautiful yet macabre.  Grand Meteron and its neighbor Varlaam are the largest and most visited.  Get there first thing in the morning to avoid the crush of the tourist bus crowds.  The other monasteries may be closed on certain days, or in the winter or close early. 

When you are getting lots of exercise, it seems like everyone is always starving---not hungry but starving.  Yiannis again came to the rescue with the suggestion of Restaurant Panellinio.  Located directly in the middle of town on the main traffic circle, it possibly had the best food we had in Greece.  Of course, we ate outdoors with a waterfall fountain at the east end of the dining area.  To the west, the rocks of Meteora loomed over the city.  The traffic and activity of Kalampaka buzzed around us yet the dining area seemed tranquil. 

Our schedule only allowed part of one day in Meteora/Kalampaka and one night at the Alsos House.  We recommend more time if possible.  Stay two nights which will allow you to get up and visit your monasteries of choice early.  The rest of your time can be utilized to hike around the unique rock formations and not be rushed. 

Both Vikos Gorge (Koukouli) and Meteora (Kalampaka) provide the traveler with the opportunity for intensive and extensive (really gorge yourself) hiking in unique natural settings.  Although Meteora may be overrun by tourist buses during the high season, most of the group travelers will never wander far from their air conditioned buses to interfere with your peaceful hikes (especially the secret monk hikes).  Both locations provide you with the chance to travel The Road Less Traveled  yet allow you to enjoy excellent lodging at reasonable prices, great Greek food and marvel at two remarkable corners of our planet.

**All Photos by Don Miller

If You Go

Koukouli

Traditional Guest House

Mr. Miltos Ritas Koukouli,

Zagoria-Ioannina

Telephone 30-26530 71070

Mobile Telephone 30-6944 77-26-38   

   or to make reservations

Denise and Peggy Guest Inn

Greek Network of Rural Accommodation

www.guestinn.com

info@guestinn.com  

I would call Mr. Ritas for exact directions because the ones given us by Denise and Peggy did not help us find Koukouli.    Mr. Ritas is the owner, speaks excellent English and gives super instructions.    

Meteora

Alsos House

 Yiannis Karakantas, Owner

5 Kanari Street

Kalampaka TK 42200

E-mail alsoshouse@kalampaka.com oralsos-house@kmp.forthnet.gr

Telephone 30 24320 24097

Fax 30 24320 79191

Mobile Telephone 30 697 2544825  

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