The Eden of the Havasupai:  Hiking to the Bottom of the Grand Canyon

By Sharon Miller

October 2004

In my opinion, the most beautiful part of the Grand Canyon is not in Grand Canyon National Park.  You cannot see it from the North Rim, or even from the more popular South Rim.  It is actually on the Havasupai Indian Reservation, which is just south of the national park and you have to hike ten miles just to get there. It is not as bad as it sounds, however. Except for the first half mile, during which you cover about 85% of the 2000 foot drop in elevation, the hike is really just a long, gentle slope down. The trailhead starts at Hualapai Hilltop, only a four hour drive from Flagstaff, Arizona, and offers only a couple of port-a-potties and a large parking area.

It was still pitch black in the canyon as Walter and I prepared ourselves for the hike.   Four a.m. may seem a bit early to begin, but we knew that temperatures inside the canyon can rise well above 110 degrees, and we wanted to be at the campgrounds before the heat of the day set in.  We had arranged ahead of time for our large packs and food to be carried down to the campsites by pack mules, and despite the exorbitant cost of $150 I would recommend it to everyone, as it makes your hike much more relaxing and enjoyable.

By the time we finally set off, the sun was just beginning to color the sky with a pinkish hue, so we still had to use our headlights to navigate the switchbacks.  Due to our early start, we knew we had plenty of time, and it being our first trip down, Walter and I hung back to take pictures and enjoy the scenery.  After a couple of hours, we could tell we were getting close, because the dry, dusty, red rock started to give way to the lush green of a jungle, which surprised both of us.  We could hear  the water of Havasu Creek ambling past, although we could not quite see it and the air took on a slightly more humid and cool quality.  It was nearly nine a.m. as we meandered into Supai the small Indian village about two miles from the campsite.  It was a welcome sight, because we had already finished the majority of our water and snacks.  We stopped at the general store, which is pretty much the first thing you encounter as you enter the village, and picked up a couple of Snicker bars. Considering it is the only general store in the village, the prices were not too outrageous.  After stopping by the camping office to check in, we continued through the village and started the final two miles of the hike to the campgrounds.

As you get nearer to the campgrounds, the first falls you come to are Navajo Falls, the smallest of the three, falling only 75 feet into a magnificent swimming hole.  We stopped for a moment, but with the campsite so near, we plunged ahead.  After about another half mile, you could hear the roar of Havasu Falls, and as you come up to them, the scene literally takes your breath away.  You will find yourself standing on top of the falls looking down 100 feet to a huge crystal clear, blue swimming hole, leading off into the creek that flows through the campgrounds.  Relieved that we had made it and anxious to cool ourselves in the water, we quickly picked out a site, set up camp and changed into our swimsuits.  The water, which stays a pretty constant 70 degrees, seemed extremely cold compared to the 100 degree heat that we were experiencing in the canyon.  Nevertheless, it was wonderfully refreshing.  After wearing ourselves out swimming, we laid out in the sun and relaxed for the rest of the day.

We had three full days to explore the canyon and all of the trails, and we loved every minute of it.   We survived on canned tuna fish (although the packets may be better), ramen noodles, peanut butter and jelly sandwiches, trail mix, granola bars and instant oatmeal (get the flavored kind).  It is advisable to hang your food bags up in the trees to avoid critters creeping into your site at night.  You must also remember that it is “pack in, pack out” at the Havasu campgrounds, meaning that anything you bring into the canyon, you must also take out with you, including all of your garbage and food scraps (which you should hang high in the trees as well).   The campgrounds are extremely rustic, with no running water and no electricity.  There is a small spring that you can get drinking water from, although they recommend that you boil it, or you can chose to drink from the chlorinated tap.  Most of the campsites also offer a picnic table and there are port-a-potties at the entrance to the campgrounds, however, you should bring your own toilet paper.  Our daily showers consisted of jumping into the creek for a swim, and although you can bring biodegradable soap, we chose to just let nature take its course and be dirty for five days.

Our days were spent hiking, swimming or just relaxing in the sun.  One hike that must be made while you are there, is the short hike to Mooney Falls, the most majestic of the three.  Just one mile from the entrance to the campgrounds (there are sites relatively close to Mooney Falls which also has a couple of port-a-potties), Mooney Falls plunges 200 feet (which is higher than Niagara Falls) and is a only accessible by climbing down a very steep and slippery trail, at one point you actually have to lower yourself down on ropes.

If you have the time or the energy, you can also hike to Beaver Falls, which is about a six mile hike, round-trip or even all the way to the Colorado River, which is about ten miles round-trip.  I would only recommend these hikes if you are able to leave extremely early in the morning and are in good physical condition.  Both hikes require that you cross the creek several times (often through deep water), climb up steep cliffs using ropes and be out in the extreme midday heat.  If you choose to tackle these adventures, make sure you bring plenty of water (much more than you think you need) and some type of water shoes to change into when you cross the river.

The nights were a time for peace and quiet, spent gazing up at the stars and enjoying a life without the constant ring of a telephone and the noise of the television.

On the fifth day, we set out about five a.m. again hoping to beat the midday heat.  Once again, the hike was not so bad; although this time you are on a gentle slope up.  Nevertheless, the last half mile, which was not so bad on the way down, was brutal.  Hiking almost straight up on the switchbacks, at the end of the ten-mile hike when the sun is already high in the sky, there were moments when I thought I was not going to make it.  However, after frequent rest stops, we did make it and as we loaded up the car, I looked out over the canyon and found it hard to imagine that the Eden of the Havasupai really did exist somewhere down there amongst all of that red glowing rock.

**All Photos by Sharon Miller

If You Go

www.havasupaitribe.com

 (928) 448-2237

    Fees:     $20 entry fee per person                                                     

                      $10 per person per night      

                      $150 round-trip to rent a pack mule or ride a  horse down

It is recommended that you make campground reservation at least 3 months in advance.

Things To Bring 

• Bathing Suit, Shorts, T-shirts, Underwear, Fleece, Hat, Sunglasses, Socks, Hiking Shoes, Water Shoes
• Sun Block, Bug Repellant, Sleeping Bag, Tent, Camera, Film
• Tuna Fish, Ramen Noodles, Instant Oatmeal, Granola, Trail Mix

Directions

Heading West on Route 66 from Flagstaff, turn north on Road 18, inbetween Seligman & Peach Springs.  Bring plenty of water and fill up with gas.

If you do not want to camp, there is a lodge in the village, two miles from Havasu Falls.  All rooms have two double beds, private bath and air conditioning.  For reservations call: (928) 448-2111.  Cost:  $96 for four people or $80 for two people.

*This article was also featured on GoNOMAd.com

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