It's Not Too Late to Hike Cinque Terre
By Sharon Miller

Perched on the edge of a cliff, overlooking the Mediterranean, Cinque Terre used to be a little known attraction.  Only the savviest of travelers, true backpackers, had ever heard of its existence.  Sadly, that is not the case anymore.  As more and more travelers became enamored with its tranquil beauty and friendly people, word of mouth spread like wildfire.  Once the unknown secret, Cinque Terre has now been covered by almost every major travel magazine.  Every Tom, Dick and Harry has at least heard of these little Italian villages, if indeed, they have not already been there.

Nevertheless, it is not too late.  Although there are now tourists crawling the streets of these quaint little towns, the increase in revenue has certainly helped them.  The last time I was there, new hand rails were being installed along the most treacherous parts of the hikes, the restaurants and shops have spruced up a bit, and accommodations for let have increased.  And, because Cinque Terre is still relatively difficult to get to (compared to the major destination cities) only those dedicated to visiting actually go.  So even though the amount of tourists has increased, the beauty of the villages and the friendliness of its people have not decreased.

In English, Cinque Terre means “Five Lands,” and that is exactly what it is, five small Italian villages nestled on the rocky cliffs of Northwestern Italy.  Overlooking the beautiful blue waters, the blue, pink and yellow pastel buildings are separated by tiny cobblestone streets.  Outdoor cafes line the main thoroughfares of each town, where one would be shocked to see a motorized vehicle.  The main draw of Cinque Terre is the four spectacular and somewhat difficult hikes, between each of the five villages.  These hikes afford such amazing views of the sea and villages that I have suffered through the intense uphills and the terrifying downhills not once, but twice, and I will go back.

I have hiked both from Riomaggiore (the smallest and southern most of the towns) to Monterosso (the largest and northern most) and vice versa.   The latter is the way to go.  Even if you are staying in Riomaggiore (which I was on my first trip) it would be wise to take the early train to Monterosso and hike in that direction.  That way, you can tackle the two most difficult hikes in the morning, when the sun is still low, your legs are still fresh and a light breakfast is energizing your body.  Whichever, way you choose however, make sure you wear good hiking shoes (I have actually seen someone hiking in heels) and bring plenty of water, sunscreen, a hat and a good camera.

The first hike, between Monterosso and Vernazza, can be very discouraging, unless you are prepared.  This is by far the most difficult of the hikes, and starts with a painful climb up an uneven, stone staircase.  Nevertheless, once you conquer this seemingly impossible hurdle, and have your first glimpse of the views that will continue to mesmerize you for the rest of the hikes, you will catch a second wind and feel a renewed sense of vigor.  If you do not, however, you are in luck, for the hikes even out a bit (although there are still several ups and downs, though none as hard as that first climb) and you will find it easier to catch your breath.

I recommend strolling through each of the towns as you come to them.  The small streets, stray cats and laundry drying above you provide a truly Italian atmosphere.  You may want to save your souvenir shopping for later, because you do not want to carry anything extra with you.  It is easy to take the train to any of the villages once you finish hiking if you spot something you must have.   The towns are a good place, however, to restock your water supply and  pick up any snacks you may need to make it through the next trek.

Because Corniglia is the third town you reach, it is also a good place to stop for lunch.  Depending on the time you started, it will probably be about lunchtime, and you will have completed the two hardest hikes.  Therefore, after you have filled your belly with the heavy Italian cuisine, which tends to make you feel lethargic, it will not be as daunting to tackle the last two.

The hike from Corniglia starts just the opposite of the first one, down a tall, stone staircase. (If you are hiking the opposite way, you will have to climb these stairs).  This leads you down to the train station, which you will hike beside for a little while.  This is probably the easiest of all the hikes, perfect for an after lunch stroll.   It consists of mostly flat, paved terrain, intermingled with gradual uphill treks to get you up and over the cliffs.  As you get closer to Manarola, you can look back and see the three villages you have already passed.

The hardest thing about the last hike, between Manarola and Riomaggiore is actually finding it.  Both times (and both ways) I honestly think I never found the trail.  Instead, I found myself hiking through what seemed to be someone’s yard and vineyard or crossing a huge arched bridge way above the villages.  Either way, I eventually made it and was still blessed with amazing views of the sea.

All and all, it is not too late to enjoy the majestic beauty that these five villages have to offer.  Although you may run into whole tour groups of people being led on the trail (complete with an umbrella touting guide) where once you could find peace and solitude, the inherent charm that drew the first travelers is still the same.

**All Photos by Sharon Miller

If You Go

To Get There:  Take the train to La Spezia from any major city (it’s a fairly large station) and then hop on the local train that makes all stops on its way to Sestri Levante.

Useful Websites

www.cinqueterre.it

www.aptcinqueterre.sp.it

www.5terre.com

www.cinqueterreonline.com

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