As the ferry nears the port, the tallest freestanding clock tower in the Greek Dodecanese chain comes into view. Can it be 1:25? No. The clock is stuck there. (If this starts to get on your nerves, just walk around the other side. It always reads 5:05.)

Our first priority upon arrival on the island was to find a place to stay.  Hotel Halki, right at the coastline, appeared to be the biggest game in town, despite the fact that it is a former sponge factory and not much to look at. We headed over and, much to our chagrin, found out Hotel Halki had closed down a couple of years before.

That Halki has no operating hotel sounds far worse than it is.   There are dozens of colorful villas for rent, some with ornate balconies, others hidden behind massive fig trees. Rooms in villas are aplenty. We found double accommodations for 20 euro (U.S.$28), with a pleasant courtyard for evenings and a fridge in the room.

Rooms are not arranged directly at the villas, but rather at several travel companies dotting the harbor area. Some 100 old villas and fishermen‘s houses are being restored to accommodate future tourists.

Be advised that, while it may seem appealing to stay a few meters from water‘s edge, the ferry departs at 6:30 a.m. and you‘ll find your sleep disturbed by the business people delivering boxes to the harbor. As no cafe opens quite so early in the day, backpackers tend to cluster around waiting for the ferry. The small boats to Rhodes start out even earlier.

In 1983 UNESCO designated Halki as the isle of peace and friendship. What Halki received in the deal was a bit of recognition. Tourism levels have increased, though there is still no airport. Today the population is about 250.

This is an island where you can‘t get lost. The area is about 10 kilometers long and 3 kilometers across and there‘s one populated town, clustered around the harbor area - Emborio Halki boasts 15 restaurants (tavernas) and cafes.

For snacks, if the well-stocked supermarkets won‘t suffice, visit Dimitri‘s popular bakery. He offers up sandwiches and pizza by the slice. Or you can get your choice of pies for only 80 cents/U.S$1.12 (cheese, apple, sausage, ham and cheese or spinach).

By some cruel twist of fate, right near the bakery is the Halki Fitness Studio. It‘s an air-conditioned wonder for such a tiny island, offering stationary bicycles, treadmills, rowers, steps, weights, stretching area.  Instruction can be given in English. You can get relaxation and sports therapy, a fitness assessment, even a massage. The studio is open Tues. to Sat. from 7 a.m. to 10 a.m. and 6 p.m. to 8 p.m. Massages are only given between 10 a.m. and 5 p.m.

You‘ll find five beaches on the island, some sandy, other rougher. Some areas are ideal for snorkeling.

The sponge blight of the 1920s hurt the population of Halki. Tarpon Springs Boulevard is the name of the paved street donated by concerned Halki expatriates living in Tarpon Springs, Florida. It is the main thoroughfare of the island.

 Halki is mountainous, but in the lush valley between Emborio and Horio there are groves of olives, wild fig also carob and mastic trees. In former times, the island was covered with eucalyptus, pine and mulberry trees.

Horio is the former capital, but is now abandoned. It thrived in the 18th and 19th centuries and is found four kilometers from Emborio. It lies in ruin. Halki‘s 15th century castle is situated on a classic site there and you can look for the Byzantine frescoes inside the old walls. Fragments of ceramics have been found in the area. The castle is a an hour‘s hike (one-way) or you can take the taxi. There is a card telephone if you want to contact the taxi for a ride back to civilization.

St. John‘s Monastery is a difficult 2 1/2-hour walk each way. The monastery is run by a caretaker, as the monks left back in the 1940s. Ask if you‘d like to stay in a cell (room) overnight. You can also travel there by taxi.

The island has some 6000 goats (that‘s 200 per square kilometer). There‘s hardly space for the sheep! Many islanders raise bees for honey and wax. The island boasts 14 varieties of butterflies and 40 types of birds (with 21 others reported in sightings). The dryness is ideal for various lizards and you may spot some on walls or in rock gardens. Chances are they‘ll be too quick for you to get a photo.

You can donate coins in the animal welfare collection points at the island‘s travel offices. This fund provides food for stray cats and dogs.

If you want souvenirs, go to Ria‘s. She sells trinkets of all sorts and some clothing items. My Halki t-shirt (100% cotton) cost 8 euro/U.S.$11.20. She has a small selection of handicraft work, mostly tablecloths, starting at 20 euro/U.S.$28. Be sure to buy an island map if you plan to hike and she also has a book in English titled More About Halki by Gabi Pflueger (5 euro/U.S.$7).

You‘d better get used to walking when you visit this friendly little island.  You might have to wait a while for the sole taxi and there is no bus system.  There are no rental possibilities for cars, motorcycles or even bicycles.  You‘ll have to rely on your feet, but isn‘t that what a hiking vacation is all about?

* All Photos By Alf B. Meier

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