Living in Aspen for nine years, I have had the opportunity to see an incredible number of people from vastly different cultures, all varied with complex and not so complex idiosyncrasies so intrinsic you begin to find it second nature to be able to pick a person’s background. Likely because I have developed a solid group of friends from there, I have come to the realization that New Zealand (As a disclaimer for anyone reading from there, starkly different from Australia.) holds in its people, its land, and its culture an unparalleled individuality.

I always thought I’d like to make the rounds there if ever a chance arose. This past fall I had the opportunity. As a precursor to a wedding of one of my closest Kiwi friends in Fiji, a group of friends and I traveled to see what all the fuss is about.

The Country

New Zealand is about the size of Colorado. However, unlike The Centennial State, at just under 104,000 square miles, New Zealand is made up of two elongated islands running over 600 miles in length north and south off the southeast corner of Australia. These two often mixed countries are separated by the Tasman Sea.

New Zealand’s two islands are starkly different. Population wise, New Zealand is home to around 4 million. The indigenous Maori people make up 15%, the majority of the remainder being of British descent. With Auckland as the country’s largest city at 1.3 million - equal to the entire South Island - and the capital, Wellington, The North Island is home to 75% of the country’s inhabitants. The South Island is far less populated with the remaining 25%. The North Island is made up of mostly coastal plains and small mountain ranges. The South Island, with the taller Southern Alps, boasts the country’s tallest mountain, Mt. Cook and over 360 glaciers. Weather on the North Island is usually more temperate, and winters on The South Island can sometimes resemble Artic conditions. The East Coast of New Zealand is the driest area, while the West Coast of the South Island has one of the highest annual rainfalls in the world. January and February are the warmest months in New Zealand; July and August are the coolest.

Agriculture is the predominant industry in New Zealand. The country has thirteen times as many sheep as people; hence, the musings about male promiscuity. Recently, greater Articles Listed by Country through air travel has significantly boosted tourism, and the country has responded with an impressive number of  locations, invaluable to the peregrine.

Getting There

Currently no one has swum to New Zealand from America, and I once made the mistake of asking if you could “take a ferry from Australia”. That got roars of laughter!

Obviously, the easiest way to get there is to fly and if you have a flexible schedule, you can sign up to receive routine letters about special offers from Air New Zealand. Most of the flight search engines produce competitive rates including the ones you’ll find on the Air New Zealand site. My flight, booked about three months in advance off of an Air New Zealand special offer email, cost me $711US roundtrip from LAX to Christchurch. You will also find that you are able to book into Christchurch on the South Island and depart from Auckland at the north tip of the North Island. At least one of our party did this, and I agree it is very useful for seeing the entire country.

The time difference from Mountain Standard Time is 20 hours ahead in our winter and 18 ahead in our summer due to daylight savings time changes. If it’s noon here in December, it’s 8AM tomorrow there. Most flights from LAX depart in the evening, and the flight is around 12 hours. This will get you there mid-morning two calendar days later, with little jetlag.

Heed the advice to arrive well in advance for an international departure. The customs personnel are mostly friendly, but queues of over 100 are not uncommon. Do keep in mind, before any international departure from New Zealand, you will be asked to pay a $25NZ Airport Tax, so don’t run completely out of money. Also, don’t forget to take advantage of the Duty Free outlets in the airports. Liquor is very expensive in New Zealand, and this offers a substantial discount.

It’s at least a 30 to 45 minute ride from Auckland International north to most places in Auckland, and there are plenty of options for getting there. Exit the arrival doors and make your way left all the way around the end of the building to find the mass shuttle stands. I used Super Shuttle each time. The drivers aren’t there for quality conversation, but it’s reasonable, and they’ll drop you right at your door no matter where you’re going. It’s best to make a reservation, especially for your departure. They are masters of the airport’s traffic patterns, and offer adjustments based on peak travel time to get you there on time.

Intra-Country Modes of Travel

There are plenty of rental cars and Backpacker destinations all around the country.  For single travelers, two good options for getting around are the Kiwi Experience and the Magic Bus.  Both offer jump-on, jump-off bus travel that will take you to most of the major destinations. However, with eight of us traveling, we chose one of the more recognizable modes of travel, the heralded and instant tourist tag Maui Camper Van.  A little less than two weeks travel cost each person around $1,000US including gas. These sufficiently powerful vans are based on commercial truck frames with custom campers built to accommodate two to six. They double as sleeping accommodations, and provide a “home base” everywhere you travel. Roads in rural areas are narrower than the US, and bridges are often single lane, with one side indicating the driver should “Give Way” or yield if another vehicle is traveling the bridge in the opposite direction. Driving is on the left hand side of the road, and the steering is on the right. Pay special attention to turn lanes and the abundant roundabouts. It definitely takes time to get used to.

Keep in mind, as tourism increases, travelers are becoming prime targets for theives.  Our camper van was not attacked, but the rental car that drove along with us for part of the trip was. The thieves stole all clothing strewn in plain sight around the car, and left the digital camera. Make sure you conceal all items within view of the windows, and lock all doors and windows at all times when leaving the vehicle unattended.

A recent emphasis on curtailing drunk driving around the country is clearly evident on the billboards and street signs. The country makes no apologies for its zero tolerance for this with signs like “Drink Drive Die”. Spontaneous road blocks and no need for probable cause should deter you from having anything at all to drink before getting behind the wheel even in remote areas.   The speed limit posted in most areas is 100 kmh or about 62 mph. I found this to be plenty fast on the winding roads.

Financial Opportunities and Restrictions

In 1967 New Zealand began producing its current currency, the New Zealand Dollar. Since 1 January 2000, the average exchange rate has been $.51US to $1NZ; however, currently in 2005, the rate is floating around $.70US, near the all time high and not as favorable for us. There are numerous exchange locations all across the country, with competitive rates. I did find that when I paid with a credit card (Visa and Master Card are widely accepted) these transactions had marginally better exchange rates. My suggestion would be to take your debit or credit card, and use it whenever possible. For cash, make withdrawals at teller windows at any of the major banking institutions. These transactions, if done with an actual representative, make use of the best possible exchange rate, and avoid the ATM surcharges associated with, at least, the New Zealand bank.

You will also find that, with the paper bill denominations beginning at $5NZ, you will become inundated with a myriad of coins almost immediately. They have anywhere from five cent coins to two dollar pieces. Be prepared to continuously work to keep your change pocket empty. It seems the locals just accept it as a fact of life; it is not offensive to spread them on the counter and count out what you need. Pay with coins whenever possible.

The South Island

Once you get there, secure your gear, and navigate customs the real journey begins. Mine started at Christchurch.  From Christchurch we drove south to Twizel, about four hours away. Scotty, the impending groom and a native to New Zealand, had a friend there in charge of the Mackenzie Country Inn.  It is a small town of around 1,000 with plenty to offer for recreation. We only passed through; however, in the summer, endless options are at your disposal.

On the way to Twizel, we drove by Lake Tekapo and Lake Pukaki. We were able to drive along the south coast of Lake Pukaki and view the tallest mountain in the country, Mount Cook, located in Aoraki National Park.  Currently, it stands at just over 12,000 feet; however, the peak is still inching upward at about 10mm per year.

The next day, our group headed to the first major destination, Queenstown, a small, service-oriented community that has established itself as one of the premier places to visit on The South Island. On similar latitude as Tasmania, far south of the equator, we were fortunate to have comfortable weather, as it can get cold and rainy, or snowy in winter.

We stayed at the Creeksyde Holiday Park just a few minutes walk from downtown. It is a nice place with all major accommodations including internet access. Spending a couple of days here, we took advantage of several attractions. In the summer you could easily spend up to a week fitting it all in.

For $95NZ we took a jetboat ride on the Shotover River. Only a short shuttle from town, the thrill was worth the cost. We also spent a day on Lake Wakatipu, the main lake in the area. At about 33 degrees Fahrenheit, it’s ridiculously cold. We took two boats out on a sunny day for some skiing and wakeboarding. If you decide to go, definitely take a full wetsuit even on hot sunny days. I really wanted to try the world’s highest bungee jump just outside of town, but we ran out of time. Another adventure we didn’t have time for, but everyone was talking about was the Skyline Luge.

As with all small, service towns, there are plenty of bars and eateries. We had dinner at a hole-in-the-wall downtown called The Cow. In a small back alley called Cow Lane, this is a local’s establishment that has become popular for its atmosphere and great pizzas and pastas. I highly recommend visiting this place at least once. Another good place we visited was The Lone Star Café.    It is always interesting when other countries try to recreate that Texas feel.  For nightlife, try Chico’s Restaurant and Bar on the mall. We didn’t eat there, but we sure did drink. This place is owned by friends Spud and Lisa Murphy, and transforms into a dance club after dark. A really fun place to party the night away, this bar should not be overlooked. Another sidetrack you might find interesting is The Boiler Room. At the end of the mall next to the wharf, it has an all ice bar called 5 Below, which was closed when we went by, but might be interesting. Other local’s picks are Subculture for house music and Bardeaux if you’re looking for a “couchy” lounge to relax in.

After you have your fill of Queenstown, make your way over to the West Coast. We did not, but you should stop by Wanaka and Cardrona Ski Resort.    Lake Wanaka at the gateway of Mt. Aspiring National Park has access to limitless outdoor activities.  In October Wanaka is host to The Perfect Woman Competition.   As a benefit to the Cancer Society, this battle showcases events such as guy bucking, backing a trailer, billiards, proper fitting of snow chains, hammering a four inch nail, digging a fence post, tipping a ram into shearing position, and my favorite, opening a quart of beer with no opener. It might be worth the whole trip just to see this.

The West Coast

We drove from Queenstown to Haast on the West Coast. This takes a minimum of four hours if you want to see everything. You will drive through Mount Aspiring National Park and Westland Tai Poutini National Park.   These parks are part of the Southwest New Zealand World Heritage Area. The most impressive views were the mountains that seem to extend at a 90 degree angle straight out of the earth. The hiking is endless. The creeks and glades are dense with waterfalls everywhere. The rivers flow a barely describable jade/turquoise color. Mt. Aspiring itself is the only peak above 9,800 feet outside Mt. Cook Aoraki National Park.

Moving on from Haast, where we met the 2003 3rd place winner of The Perfect Woman Competition, we ended the day at Jack’s Point on the West Coast. The Tasman Sea was breaking right on our free campsite. I slept right on the beach, which was not the best idea. You will learn during your trip of the menace I fought the next morning.   Sand Flies are mini-mosquitoes. Make sure you take the appropriate insect repellent to fend off these varmints. The bite isn’t bad at first, but you just wait. Within two days you will be scratching your skin away like a boil-covered Job.

The next day we traveled up the West Coast. It’s a decent day of driving, but you are traveling all along the coast, and the sights are great. Our first major stop was Punakaiki, center of Paparoa National Park. This community is home to the Pancake Rocks at Dolomite Point. Try and hit this location at high tide to get the best views of the blowholes in the rocks.

On our way up the coast we also stopped and saw another awesome sight, The Fox Glacier. You can take guided hikes up and onto the glacier, but we decided to fend for ourselves.  I highly recommend taking the time for this side trip.  The Franz Joseph Glacier, also on the West Coast, is another possibility. These easily accessible glaciers are receding rapidly, so this opportunity may not be around for long.

By the end of the day we made it to our destination just inland, Murchison. This is a very small town in the middle of the north of The South Island. We camped at a nice park just outside of town. The next day, we got up early to get what we came for… rafting. There are quite a few rivers flowing in the area. One of the major ones is the Buller River in the Buller Gorge. The outfit Scotty chose was Ultimate Descents owned by a guy named Tim.  It’s a decent Class III river that should be no problem for even the semi-experienced rafter. The rapids have names like Jet Boat, Whale Creek and Ariki Falls, and there is some pretty good surfing. Being guides, we paddled in our own guided raft with the company guide, Sonny, just along for the ride. Scotty, Paul and Mike rented kayaks. Our negotiated cost was $50NZ per person for a five mile, hour plus run. Keep in mind this is not the going rate.

Another river not typically rafted due to its location and length of run is the Matakitaki, pronounced mă-tă'kē-tă'kē. We had already turned the raft back in, and Scotty, Paul and Mike were headed down in kayaks, so I decided I could make it no problem on a Paco Pad, which is essentially an industrial strength inflatable pool air mattress. This run was only about a mile long Class III, but I swam practically the entire stretch. I think the kayakers probably had as much fun watching me chase the mattress and my flip flops as they did paddling. I can easily say, from a first-hand perspective, you won’t get sick drinking the river water down there.

We returned the kayaks that afternoon and bandaged up the two inch, to the bone gash on my right shin that I got in the last rapid of the aforementioned lapse in judgment. By mid-evening, we made it 95 miles up to Marahau on the northwest tip of The South Island. This is the entryway to Able Tasman National Park. It’s a very pretty place on the water in a cove just inside the tip of the island. It has a local laid back feel, and everyone we met was very nice. This section of our trip is one of the two must-dos while you are over.

We camped at an RV site just across the street from and managed by Marahau Sea Kayaks. This is a mom and pop business that is very nice, and has extremely accommodating staff. The next morning we were up and ready to roll by 10:30. We took three doubles and two singles. These sea kayaks are not very tipsy. It’s definitely novice level. The water is pretty calm even in the Mad Mile, which is an exposed, windy section of the route. The rental outfit did say severe weather can be a problem; however, we only got drizzled on once. They gave us “waterproof bags,” also known as garbage bags, to pack our gear in. The weather was nice, so we had a very good trip out. I paddled a double. I suggest dressing for aerobic activity; you can make this a very energetic activity, especially if the group is competitive and/or you have a headwind both ways like we did.

The trip out took us about 3 hours. We, being a fit group, were well ahead of the described time frame. The shoreline is really interesting. Off striking cliffs, we saw seals through crystal clear water. It was the beginning of spring, so the water and air was still crisp and not inviting for a dip. My suggestion would be to paddle to Mosquito Cove campground, which is an unexpectedly nice, remote campground with non-potable running water, multiple tent sites, and restrooms. Be sure to secure your kayaks inside the campsite, and don’t leave anything near the water. High tide will raise the water level a few feet and about a hundred yards inland. After you set up camp midday, make the extra trek out to the north end of the park, and see the seal colony. It’s about another hour paddle, but well worth it.

We chose to camp for one night, and paddle back the next day. This seemed like plenty of time, but you could also make it a three day event.

That afternoon we took a casual trip around the north of the island, stopping in Havelock to eat at The Mussel Boys Restaurant. If you like mussels, you will love this place. Green lips out the yin yang! They do have other items on the menu, but why would you? The majority of the worlds Green Lip Mussels are raised and harvested in the area. The worldwide demand is so high; they actually have to reserve part of the harvest for distribution inside the country. The operation is very interesting, and the staff will be happy to discuss it with you.

The North Island

We arrived at the ferry at Picton about 8 PM that evening. This is the main way to cross from The South Island to The North Island. It’s not necessary, but it’s cheaper if you make a reservation. The boats hold people, cars, trains, everything. The trip takes about three hours, and is comfortable and spacious. There is even a movie theater on the boat. The boat does rock a small bit, but I believe sea sickness will probably not be an issue.

We docked in Wellington at about 1 AM. Not wasting any time, we skipped the capital and most of the south of The North Island, and drove six hours up to Waitomo, home of the famous glowworm caves and black water rafting. This is the other of the two must-do stops while you’re over. The Waitomo area is a rural expanse with lots of farmland and plenty of caves to see the New Zealand Glowworm. There are plenty of commercialized outfits that provide tours to these caves, but I would suggest going with the local character outfit we chose. For $99NZ, the guide at Rap Raft ‘N’ Rock was a geologist who was very knowledgeable and gave us the extended tour, allowing us to stay down much longer than most.   The trip consists of donning a cold, damp, but clean wetsuit, gun boots that really help with the slicker-than-snot rocks and a helmet with homemade headlamp, abseiling (rappelling) down a 100 foot crack in the middle of a hilly farm, and making your way through a pitch black cave.   A small stream runs through the cave, so they have inner tubes down there for kicks.   Most of the trip is spelunking and viewing the awesome displays of the tens of thousands of glowworms on the ceiling. Without the sounds of the stream and trickling water, you will swear you are viewing the night sky. It’s definitely one of the most unique, fascinating experiences I’ve ever had.

That afternoon we made our way to Rotorua, affectionately known as Rotovegas. This town, steeped in Maori culture, offers plenty of options to fill the days.   First and foremost; however, realize that you are entering an area of the country notorious for theft and tourist exploitation.  Do not leave any vehicle unlocked while unattended, and keep all valuables including clothing and anything enticing hidden from view. We had a rental car broken into right downtown. This is where they took all the clothes while leaving a digital camera untouched. An attraction we decided to forego, but would have been nice is the Maori Cultural Shows. This is supposed to be a really good show owned by local brothers who are dedicated to preserving the culture.

We decided to visit one of the natural mineral spas in the area. The Polynesian Spa was recommended, and was acceptable.   After a long week, we were just looking for a place to relax. If you’re looking for a break this is a good place to get it.  

For dinner we found a pretty good sushi place for $45NZ per person. There are plenty of places to dine out there, and Hennessey’s is a good Irish Pub to pass the night. Do remember the drinks are much lighter than stateside, and the pricing goes in the wrong direction. For lunch, try the Cha Cha Café owned by Lawrence Nikora.

Spending another day around Rotorua, we finally got what we came for, rafting the Kaituna. This is a Class V river just outside Rotorua. It is purported to have the highest commercially rafted waterfall in the world.   The river is just .7 miles long and takes only about 30 minutes to run, but it is a must do for rafting enthusiasts and anyone seeking an adrenalin rush. Launch from a dam and enter what looks like a tropical rain forest way out of place with its surroundings.   Surrounded by plenty of Class III/IV play rapids, there are two really fun waterfalls.   The first is a fun double drop with two ten foot falls back to back. There are companies that offer guided trips, but if you decide to run the river without a guide, all rapids are read and run except this one.   Make sure and enter right between the two cement blocks. The kicker is towards the end, and though you will hear the rumble, you won’t see it until it’s too late. Tutea Falls is a 21 foot waterfall into a pool below. Plan on flipping! There is a viewing area to watch the rafts go over, accessible from the takeout, for the faint of heart. We rented a raft and kayaks from Sunspots Kayak Shop and guided ourselves down. They do not offer guided raft trips, but have an excellent selection of kayaks.   Scotty and I almost fell out of the raft laughing while listening and watching Denis, who has never guided a raft in his life, maneuver us down. We flipped twice in four trips, once over the big falls. This is an awesome experience for anyone wishing to test their limits. There are other, less technical rivers in the area if something less exhilarating is in order. Do heed the signs posted everywhere about vehicle burglaries. This section is notorious for thieves. We left someone with the car at all times.

After rafting we drove on to the east coast and The Bay of Plenty.   This whole area is a beautiful inlet rapidly growing due to the lifestyle opportunities.   There is even a nude beach. It would be a good idea to spend a few days here seeing the sights.

Auckland

2 ½ hours northwest of Papamoa, we arrived in Auckland. This City of Sails and capital of New Zealand for 25 years is home to three harbors, two mountain ranges and over 50 islands. With over one-third of the country’s population, you can find almost anything here. One of the better ways to see the city is to take a ferry around the Hauraki Gulf. The Auckland area is also home to New Zealand’s four largest wineries. You can rent beach cruisers to see the shore, or to get back to nature and hike the Waitakere and Hunua Ranges to disappear into cool peaceful rainforests. Another good option is to take a ferry or sea kayak over to Rangitoto, and hike up one of the region’s largest volcanoes. We took a ferry to the small town of Devonport for a stroll around a really nice community.

We stayed at the Copthorne Harbour City for around $100US; very nice for the price, and you can’t beat the location. Queen Street, the center of downtown, is one block away. Remember, New Zealander’s are notorious for disregarding pedestrians. Be careful when you walk the busy streets. The cars come from the opposite direction, and it’s apparently too much effort to use the horn. On the corner of Queen and Quay sits a Ponsonby Pies outlet. You haven’t had a New Zealand pie until you have had one of these. The hotel is situated right on Waitemata Harbour, with bars and dining to please anyone, and a maritime museum. Danny Doolan’s, right on the corner, is a great place to get a drink and surprisingly good food for a bar. One evening, be sure to take the ten minute walk up Queen Street to find Tanuki’s and, below that, Tanuki’s Cave. The sushi is very good and reasonably priced. Definitely not touristy, it seems to be a local favorite.   The black door to the right leads down to a dungeon called Tanuki’s Cave. Run by a staff of “kids”, this place has great character, entertains all types, and offers good skewer dishes and the largest selection of sake I’ve ever seen.

Sadly, Auckland was the last stop on our journey.  Although our trip covered alot of the adventures New Zealand has to offer, it was truly only an overview of what could be an endless tour of an interesting country.  Nevertheless, our journey through snowy mountains, green pastures and sandy beaches created memories that will last a lifetime. 

**All photos taken by Will Rutledge

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