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By Troy Herrick, Freelance Writer October 2005
The island of Newfoundland (“the Rock”) is blessed with a rich history, rugged scenery, colorful sunsets, abundant wildlife and some of the friendliest people in Canada. Visitors can experience of all these by taking a leisurely drive along highway 430 which traverses the Great Northern Peninsula from Gros Morne National Park to St. Anthony. Picturesque fishing villages pepper the rocky, windswept coast en route. Though each extends its own warm hospitality to those who are “just passing through”; many travelers succumb to the urge to stop and explore. Begin your journey at Gros Morne National Park. Those who view Gros Morne for the first time are awestruck by the powerful geological upheaval over the ages. This geologic activity is most evident at Western Brook Pond. Western Brook Pond is a landlocked fjord. This fjord was linked to the sea until the glacial retreat at the end of the last ice age. The earth slowly rebounded when the weight of the ice was removed thereby severing the connection between the fjord and the sea. Glacial run-off flushed out the salt water and created a freshwater lake. Travelers may tour Western Brook Pond by boat but they must first undertake a leisurely 3-kilometer walk to the lakeshore. The nature trail ends at a tranquil, mirror-like lake straddled by ancient (1.25 billion years old) gray cliffs. The exposed rock is a portion of the earth’s mantle laid open by plate tectonic activity. Gros Morne is a UNESCO World Heritage Site for this reason. Western Brook Pond water is pristine. The ion concentration is so low that the water will not conduct electricity. Furthermore, inadequate nutrient levels and cold water temperatures inhibit the growth of fish and plant life; thus there is little organic matter present in the water.
The 16.5 kilometer boat trip begins as the passengers sing the theme from Gilligan’s Island. Throughout the 2-hour tour, guides point out notable formations like Blue Denim Falls, so-named for the bluish color that sometimes appears in its reflection on the pond. Hanging Valley, half way up the mountain, is so-named because of its U-shaped cross section. Western Brook Pond would appear the much the same way if it was drained of water. Woody Pond Falls, 600 meters high, is almost “frozen looking”. You only notice that water is flowing after very careful observation. The two hikers who were sitting next to me prepare to depart from the boat at a lonely dock that is miles from where the boat tour started. They will begin a 5-day/35 kilometer trek over an unmarked trail. Their only guides are a compass and a topographical map of the area. Park regulations require them to carry a transmitter in case they become lost. Only nine people are permitted to “hit this trail” per day at the discretion of the Park Warden. The Warden interviews all potential candidates and assesses their camping equipment and navigational skills. Hikers must view a 30 minute safety video and purchase a hiking permit ($60). Clarisse, one of the tour guides, said that “the hike is steep and even experienced hikers turn back at times”. She also said “if it rains, it is too slippery; water can carry you off” and “when the path is gone, it is like going up a slippery stream”. As the boat docks at the end of the tour, two moose (a cow and calf) are visible in the distance. They quickly disappear into the woods. Just north of Gros Morne, the Arches Provincial Park is another testament to the geological history of the region. Ancient limestone beds have been shaped by tectonic shift and sculpted by waves, wind and ice. Two large grayish-white arches, part of an ancient receding coastline, appear as eyes directed out to sea. The sound of the sea brings a feeling of relaxation here. Traveling further north, the site of the present town of Port Aux Choix was the convergence point for several early indigenous groups over the last 5500 years. The Port Aux Choix At Crow Head, visitors find a Dorset Paleo-Eskimo funeral cave. The Dorset Paleo-Eskimo people inhabited the area from 1300 to 2000 years ago. These Arctic people were believed to have migrated south as the climate began to cool. They would later retreat north when temperatures rose. Overlooking the sea, the Philip’s Garden site contains the remnants of both Groswater Paleo-Eskimo (1900-2800 years ago) and Dorset Paleo-Eskimo villages. Approximately 50 “houses” have been excavated here. A further 18 Dorset “houses” have been unearthed near the Point Riche Lighthouse, just west of the Information Center. Visit this site just before dusk and witness a vibrantly colored sunset. Both Paleo-Eskimo groups relied heavily on the sea for resources. The Groswater group was nomadic hence their tool design is more ubiquitous in the region. The Dorset group, being more permanently settled, developed localized tool designs. Maritime Archaic Indians, a hunter-gatherer people from the south, inhabited the Port Aux Choix area approximately 3200-5500 years ago. They may have been driven from the area because the climate gradually cooled. An ancient burial ground (the Gould site), next to the Port Aux Choix Heritage Center, contained 117 Maritime Archaic skeletons. L’Anse Aux Meadows National Historic Park lies at the tip of the Great Northern Peninsula; here lies the only authentic Viking site (a UNESCO World Heritage site) in the new world. Leif Eriksson established this Viking colony just over 1000 years ago. The colony was occupied sporadically over a 20 year period. Stories passed down through local families suggest that the Vikings were slaughtered by native peoples. Starting out from the Interpretation Center, visitors are confronted by a turbulent-looking br Visitors move along a tortuous path leading to the original Viking settlement. The remnants of sod buildings lie here. There was housing space, workshops and a furnace and smithy for smelting and working iron (nails for ship repair). The village likely accommodated 75-100 individuals at any one time. Careful observers find that the village is not-at-all near the present day shoreline. The land has actually risen by one meter over the last 1000 years due to glacial melting. As the land rose, the shoreline retreated. Further along the path, visitors enter the reproduction of a Viking village. Buildings, constructed from dried peat brick, are modeled after Icelandic structures. Costumed interpreters staff the village and demonstrate how Vikings lived a millennium ago. Surprisingly the men wear tough leather helmets and not the stereotyped “horned helmets” often associated with Viking warriors. Visitors learn that the “horned helmet” is a popular misconception. No such helmet has ever been found anywhere. As we left the park at dusk to travel to St. Anthony, we encountered 3 bull moose about 100 yards away from the road. They quietly munched on tender twigs and leaves, oblivious to the crowd that was gathering. Moose are not native to Newfoundland. Six of them were introduced to the island from the mainland in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. They were fruitful and multiplied to the point where their current population may be as large as 150,000; that is almost one moose for every 3 residents on the island. The town of St. Anthony has 2 principle attractions. These are the Fox Point Lighthou Begin the day at the Fox Point Light House for a panoramic view of the area. Fox Point is one of the most reliable sites in the province for whale watching. Sandra Hounsell from Cornerbrook, Newfoundland remarked that “there are always whales here”. Sure enough, in the distance there was “spray” as one of the great mammals surfaced for a breath of air. Dennis Blake, the Canadian Coast Guard Lighthouse Keeper, later confirmed our sighting and suggested that these are likely to be Fin whales (60-75 ft. long). “Humpbacks are more playful and their tails often come out of the water” says Dennis, who reaffirms that “this is the best viewing area for whales”. Dennis spies a pod of dolphins near the whales. Their backs are black and their flanks are gray. I was unable to confirm Dennis’ sighting even with the use of binoculars. Both species are attracted by the abundance of mackerel, krill and capelin in the waters off St. Anthony. Suddenly in the distance, two dolphins jump out of the water to entertain the passengers aboard a tour boat. The Grenfell Interpretation Center and Historic Properties exhibits the life and work of Dr.Wilfred Grenfell, a humanitarian on par with Dr. Albert Schweitzer. He moved to St. Anthony in 1892 to provide medical care and preach the gospel. Grenfell serviced 30,000 impoverished people who were without basic medical care services. Over the subsequent 43 years, Grenfell provided secure and accessible healthcare to the population through a string of hospitals and nursing stations; all were staffed by qualified personnel. Grenfell’s legacy to the people was not only improved health but hope and pride as well. In 1927, Dr. Grenfell was knighted by King George V for his service to the people of Newfoundland, then a British colony. Visitors view a 15-minute film on the life of Grenfell before touring the Interpretation Center and the home in which he lived while in St. Anthony. The drive along the Great Northern Peninsula ends here but time does not stand still. While this region will continue to evolve, its history and natural beauty will always endure. **All Photos by Troy Herrick
Western Brook Boat Tour by Bon Tours - Western Brook Pond ph: 1-800-563-9887 e-mail: info@bontours.ca www.bontours.ca Daily boat tours from June to September at 10 am, 1 and 4 pm tickets: adults $38 per person The Arches Provincial Park This park is located just north of Gros Morne National Park on highway 430. Watch for the signs on the highway. Port Aux Choix National Historic Site – Port Aux Choix 15 km (9 miles) west of Port Saunders-Port Aux Choix turn off from highway 430 on Point Riche Road Admission: adults $6.50 per person Port Aux Choix Heritage Center – Port Aux Choix Fisher St. near the Post Office L’Anse Aux Meadows National Historic Site – L’Anse Aux Meadows Located 2.5 km east of the community of L’Anse Aux Meadows off route 436 Admission: adults $9 per person Fox Point Lighthouse – St. Anthony As you enter St. Anthony on highway 430, drive through town on West Street to the end of the road at Fishing Point. Grenfell Interpretation Center and Historic Properties – St. Anthony As you enter St. Anthony on route 430, continue straight through lights on West Street for 2 km. Look for the sign on the left, across from the hospital. Admission: adults $6.00 per person
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National Historic Site Information Center highlights these early peoples. After viewing a short 12-minute video and studying the ancient artifacts, visitors are invited to explore the ancient settlements. A series of nature trails brings visitors to the individual archaeological sites.
onze statue entitled “Meeting of Two Worlds”. Two independent sections combine to form an arch over the foot path. The statue symbolizes the meeting and clash of “new world” and “old world” cultures. The prominent dragon head on the bow of the Viking ship seemingly snaps at the New World section.
se and the Grenfell Interpretation Center and Historic Properties.