Olivia's

Experience True Organic Dining at Olivia's

ByJessica B. Howell, Freelance Writer

February 2008

Nestled in the heart of seaside Skagway, Alaska, is a charming bed and Colorful flowers lead the way to the Historic Skagway Inn. breakfast that if went unmentioned, would never be recognized as the fiery brothel that it once was. Bathed in sunlight and surrounded by the shockingly colorful perennials and thorny, auburn-hued roses of its Painted Lady Gardens, the Historic Skagway Inn, and attached Olivia’s Restaurant, looks every part the idyllic tourist hot spot.

From the slightly worn pale sage paint that covers the 1897 Victorian to the boardwalk that stretches along the front door and down the town’s bustling main street, this ten-room (each room named after its believed madam) escape is the pride of Karl and Rosemary Klupar.

Serving as a pit stop for gold-hungry and lonely pioneers over a century ago, the building was witness to the sinful acts of many before it was converted to a boarding house and then a family residence, before finally taking on a new life as quaint and wholesome travel accommodations.

While staying an evening at the inn is highly recommended, taking a few hours to enjoy fine dining at Olivia’s is a must when your trail has led you to this tiny town. A warm ambience and serene calm blanket the dining room just large enough for thirty people. From Creamy Halibut Chowder to an array of mouth-watering tapas, Olivia’s menu blends the perfect choices for an elsewhere unmatched dining experience shared by two, or better yet, among a group of fellow visitors.

What sets Olivia’s apart, however, is the ingenious imagination of Karl Klupar, who hosts the restaurant’s deemed culinary adventure, “Alaska Garden Gourmet.” Popular among the hundreds of cruise ship passengers that comb the town’s streets daily, Garden Gourmet is reserved for intimate groups as the town’s only foodie adventure – an active approach to supper.

Starting in the inn’s organic gardens, Klupar – donned in a signature black apron – walks the pathway, leading guests from one plant to the next while pointing out typical Alaskan show pie Olivia's organic gardens provide ample supplies for a gourmat dinner. ces, cash crops of the Gold Rush days and regional beauties. Klupar leans down and picks a delicate pink bloom, rolling its stem between his fingers.

“For your salads,” he says.

We stare at him for a moment before we bend and pick our own, tossing the edible flowers gently into his basket. It goes like this for a while, we inexperienced tourists goffing at the bright petals and making puzzled faces. A sigh of relief is heard as we make it to the recognizable greens – romaine lettuce and dandelion greens are added to the mix.

Back inside and seated at a long, white linen clothed table, we watch Klupar as he demonstrates salad preparation at a chef’s counter near the head of our table. Because we’re seated, a flat screen television is mounted to the wall before us, providing us an eagle-eye view of Klupar’s tossing and chopping. We sit in awe, sipping on our wines silently as we listen to him advise us on the culinary endeavors we’ll take on at home – when we return to real life, awaiting us outside of Alaska.

The first course, Garden City Salad, is as delightful tasting as the edible blooms are pretty. We nibble off the plates while our chef begins on the Creamy Halibut Chowder. We are, after all, on the Alaskan coast, so it’s only fitting that Halibut make a rightful appearance.

Savory chunks of the mild whitefish are cooking in stockpot full of mouth-watering vegetables and herbs. Heavy cream and Marsala wine are stirred in afterwards and the chowder thickens before our eyes. As Klupar ladles the second course into bowls, we can barely stand the anticipation. One spoonful elicits moans of pleasure. A glance around the table and is all it takes to claim the chowder tonight’s hands-down crowd pleaser. Delle Venze Zanto’s Pinot Grigio complements the hearty soup superbly, and as our smiling waitress uncorks the first bottle before our expectant glares, she offers to bring another.

Three bottles later (to be fair, there were eight in our group,) we’ve relished our personal choices for dinner and splurged with an undeniable dessert of Rhubarb Crisp, baked with rhubarb straight from – you guessed it – the gardens outside Olivia’s windows.

Satisfied to the brim both physically and mentally, Garden Gourmet proved a successful choice not only for our delicious meal, but as an enlightening attraction. “Olivia’s Inn Recipe Collection” cook books are available for purchase too, a $20 souvenir that offers 200 pages of delectably original recipes.

After farewells and thank you’s to Klupar, his wife and staff, we gather our belongings and head toward the door for return to our hotel. Looking back at the inn, I regret not having booked one of the authentic rooms if for nothing more than to keep an eye out for the resident ghosts that Klupar and his staff undoubtedly believe in.

Haunted or not, the Historic Skagway Inn and Olivia’s have enough soul to take anyone back to Skagway’s glory days, if only for a lone hour or two. Memories of hand-picked salad fixin’s and the warmth of Olivia’s and its people, however, will last a lifetime.

**All photos by Jessica B. Howell

If You Go

Olivia’s at the Skagway Inn

1-888-Skagway

1-907-983-2289

Broadway and Seventh

P.O. Box 500

Skagway, AK 99840

www.skagwayinn.com

or e-mail for more information at stay@skagwayinn.com