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Living Life in the Slow Lane: A Journey to Polebridge, Montana by Donna L. Hull, Freelance Writer
On the far western side of Glacier National Park, the tiny outpost of Polebridge, Mo Getting to Polebridge is not easy. Driving along Camas Road on Glacier Park’s western edge starts the journey. Swaths of blackened trees from the 2003 fires march across hillsides, a visible reminder of nature’s power. After crossing the Flathead River, the road ends. A right turn on North Fork Road and a 13-mile drive of mostly gravel points the way to Polebridge. Unfazed by potholes and a washboard scarred road, locals zoom by in trucks and 4-wheelers leaving clouds of dust and cautious tourists behind. The view from the road includes acres of burned trees interspersed with the green of nature’s revival. Untouched strands of trees and meadows prove the fire’s capricious nature. Lucky travelers catch glimpses of grazing deer and elk. A sense of adventure surpasses what could be a depressing scene. After ten miles of national forest and bumpy gravel road, cabins, vacation homes and a ranch or two begin to dot the scenery. O Gravel turns to pavement near the Polebridge community. A gray wood sign points the way to the turnoff. A short drive down the dirt road ends in a clearing where the red false front of Polebridge Mercantile dominates the scenery. Listed on the National Historic Register, it has been serving customers since 1914 when Bill Adair opened his mercantile store near Hay Creek. Another homemade sign posted to the railing warns: ONLY LOCAL DOGS ALLOWED ON THE PORCH. Local children can be found playing on the porch too. Aromas of cookies and fresh-baked bread draw customers inside. A long glass front cabinet displays temptations from the owner/baker. Store shelves reveal a quirky mix of merchandise including camping supplies, foodstuffs and homemade candles or goat’s milk soap. Like the Northern Lights Saloon and Cafe next door, the Mercantile is a communications center for the community. Local residents stop in for messages left by other neighbors or called in to the store’s telephone. At dinnertime, tourists, locals and thru travelers congregate on the lawn at Northern Lights Saloon and Cafe. Inside the weathered log cabin, diners sit at one of five small tables or take a stool at the bar. Paintings of the area and homemade quilts hang from burnished log walls, a gallery for local artists. Meals are a surprise, more gourmet than down-home, although moose burgers can be found on the menu. Wine is served in mason jars by an artist-bartende Dining at the Northern Lights Saloon is a friendly affair. Tourists share experiences of making the trek up the rough gravel road while hikers and backcountry enthusiasts swap tales of outdoor adventures. In the summer when Northern Lights serves around 150 meals per night, the overflow crowd eats outside on picnic tables. Come in the fall or spring and menu choice is limited to whatever the chef decides to cook that day. It’s wise to call ahead to make sure Northern Lights is open. On the Fourth of July, Polebridge’s population swells as onlookers arrive for the annual parade. Homemade floats, constructed and sponsored by local groups, pass along the dirt track of Polebridge Loop. Float makers vie to win “best float” which is awarded to the one decorated with the best use of satire and wit, usually political in nature. Although a unique day drive, Polebridge offers cabin rentals and a hostel for those inclined to stay and explore further. One choice is to take the road from Polebridge that crosses over the North Fork of the Flathead River and on to Bowman Lake in Glacier National Park. The road is rough with potholes and not advised for RV’s. The view of the glacier-fed lake at the end of the road makes the jarring ride worth it. During Glacier’s busy summer months, Polebridge provides a less-crowded opportunity to experience the park and surrounding areas. Or, come in the fall when golden leaves paint the banks of the North Fork, sit with a home-baked chocolate chip cookie from the Mercantile and enjoy the view. **All photos by Donna L. Hull
Polebridge Mercantile
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ntana exudes rustic charm. A drive down the narrow dirt lane of Polebridge Loop reveals a clearing near Hay Creek on the North Fork of the Flathead River. Mountains from the Livingston Range loom in the background. A hand-painted wooden sign warns drivers: “SLOW DOWN, KIDS AND ANIMALS HAVE TO BREATHE HERE.” Thirteen miles from the Canadian border, Polebridge is a jumping off place for hikers, backpackers, bicyclists and anglers seeking access to remote western areas of Glacier National Park. For the casual tourist, it is a peek at another way to live. 
nly 50 people choose to make the area their year-round home. It takes a hardy soul to live off the energy grid. Generators fueled by solar batteries or propane provide electricity. Kerosene or propane lights the lamps while woodstoves and fireplaces give warmth on a winter’s night. Telephone service is available at Polebridge Mercantile but cell phones with boosters are the means of communication with the outside world for most residents. A few have satellite TV. Many have outhouses. 
r who winters in Arizona.