Exploring the Ruins of Tikal

By Thomas Lera, Freelance Writer

June 2007

We got our first glimpse of Tikal watching Survivor – Guatemala. How much more amazing is the real thing! Among the world's travel wonders many call it one of the most spiritually powerful spots on earth next to Machu Picchu in Peru.   Its towering pyramids loom out of the thick jungle canopy like stoic sentinels of ancient mysteries. It is Guatemala’s most famous and magical, cultural and natural preserve. Like all unanswered puzzles, it fascinates everyone, and is so irresistible once you are there, you’ll find yourself wanting to stay just a little longer!

This majestic archaeological gem is nestled in 222 square miles of jungle surrounding a ceremonial plaza. The first National Park established in Central America, it was created as Tikal National Park by the Guatemalan Government in May of 1955 and became a National Monument in 1970.  Excavations began in 1877 and continue today, but about 80% of the ruins are still unexcavated and only 30 percent of them have been “mapped” within the park.

The Park is a sanctuary for hundreds of wild orchid species and more than 30 hardwood species. Tikal is one of the best bird watching areas of Central America, with over 410 exotic species, howler and spider monkeys, white-lipped peccary, brocket deer, coatimundis, toucans (the only time I'd ever seen one was on a cereal box.), scarlet macaws, parrots, ocelots, and even, rarely, the jaguar can be spotted.

Archeologists discovered an emblem hieroglyph from which the site derived its name, Tikal.  It was the first city-state to have an emblem glyph, a practice later adopted by others, much the way modern states have flags and companies have logos to differentiate themselves.

When first approaching the temples of Tikal, you notice a slight rise in elevation as the path meanders through the sub-tropical jungle. Howler monkeys roar in the trees, adding a strange sense of intrigue as you near the Great Plaza. The heat is stifling and the thundering clouds above warn of the torrential afternoon downpours that constantly douse the region during the rainy season.

Cockatoos and other birds with bright plumage create their music in homage to the wonders that hide in the jungle canopy 100 feet above. Although its head is in the clouds, the massive roots of the Ceiba are firmly anchored in the ground.  Sacred to the Maya, its roots reach out purposefully in the direction of the four cardinal points, supporting trunks that may reach a diameter of 10 feet. The trail continues up the incline, giving little hint of the magnificence to come, and ends at the edge of the Great Plaza.

The Great Plaza was where the ruler Ah Cacao, alias King Chocolate, built the Temple of the Masks (Temple II) and the Temple of the Great Jaguar (Temple I), and was buried about 700 AD.  Today tourists picnic near rustic shelters, share tidbits with the multi-hued ocellated turkey, as king vultures glide overhead and then roost high on top of the Temple of the Great Jaguar, which rises 145 feet above the Plaza floor.

Between Temples I and II is another interesting feature called Altar 5.  If you look carefully at the altar stone, you see two priests officiating over an altar on which a human skull rests upon a stack of femur bones.  The priests’ heads are decorated with a serpent’s head, and they are adorned with feathers, ribbons and jaguar pelts, and are holding a sacrificial knife and lance. The Mayan’s symbolism of this stone has been studied by many professors since the early 19th century.

Spend some time here and breathe deeply of Tikal’s air to prepare yourself for the exciting walks ahead. The manicured paths are the only way to explore the area. It is impossible to move anywhere off the path without a machete, and after seeing a 5-foot wide swath of army ants crossing the trail, I didn’t want to!

Typically, the soaring temples were built upon piles of earthen rubble. Each stone was painstakingly cut and added to the rising structure using a unique blend of burnt limestone and water as mortar. The construction of the enormous temples is even more spectacular considering that the Maya used no beasts-of-burden, no iron tools to cut stone, and no wheels for transport! Imagine the huge numbers of laborers needed to erect such massive edifices. Looking out onto the Great Plaza, you sense the spiritual nature of such a place during the peak of its once-thriving society.

Farther away from the complex of the Great Plaza and Temples I and II, is Temple IV, built by Ah Cacau's son around 741 AD. It towers 212 feet above the jungle floor, making it the tallest structure in the Americas before the construction of skyscrapers in the late 1800's. It’s an exciting climb to its top on wooden ladders and protruding roots.

Looking out from the top of Temple IV over the jungle canopy, it is possible to see the Great Plaza. The jungle seems to stretch in every direction, as far as the eye can see.  The view is ethereal; no doubt the intention of the builder. All of the temples lit by torches at night must have created a majestic sight in this ancient city.   The daytime views are still mystical and worth more than a cursory visit.

Tikal is a fabulous spot for adventure.  Having some information in hand to help decipher what you see can make a world of difference.  Guidebooks may be purchased at the local hotels and restaurants as well as from park personnel at the park entrance.  William R. Coe’s guide to Tikal is popular, as it is concise and includes a map.

There is no town of Tikal and no stores for shopping other than the souvenir market at the Visitor’s Center.  The park entrance is located 16 kilometers before the Visitors Center and parking lot. The entrance fee is Q50.00 quetzales and if arriving after 3 PM, tell the ticket salesman you are going to the park mañana and your ticket will be stamped for the next day.

The Visitors Center is sometimes referred to as “Tikal Village”, there are three hotels, a post office, a campground, the Park Administration Offices, souvenir handcraft shops, and three local eating places. The Morley Museum is a small building close to the parking area, where some of Tikal’s most valuable ceramics and objects are kept. In the Visitor's Center there is another museum, which houses the Stelea of Tikal.  A smaller but good museum is located 300 meters away near the Jaguar Inn Hotel.

You need more than one day to fully enjoy the ruins.  Take plenty of water, mosquito repellent and a good pair of hiking boots, and my advice...Don’t try to see all of Tikal in one day, even if you are in excellent shape!

**All photos by Thomas Lera

If You Go

Tikal National Park is located within the 6,000 square mile Maya Biosphere in the northern part of Peten, Guatemala, 63 kilometers from Flores, the capital of El Petén Province, with paved road access. About half an hour from the entrance of the National Park, it serves as a gateway to exploration of the area.

Where to Stay

www.tikalpark.com/tikalhotels.htm

Where to Eat

The Jaguar Inn (www.jaguartikal.com) is also a favored restaurant. Keep in mind none of the eating places in the Peten are "fast food" restaurants, so be sure to allow enough time for a leisurely meal.

What to Do

Good licensed guides normally cost $40 for 1 to 4 persons, $10 for each additional person to a $75 maximum for a 3 ½ to 4 hours tour. Make sure your guide is fluent in your language.  

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