Salzburg - FromMedieval to Mozart

By Michael Norris, Freelance Writer

December 2007

Stepping off the train at Salzburg’s Hauptbahnhof – the main station – you immediately see the beauty of the city. The Austrian Alps form the backdrop against which Salzburg goes about its daily business, and each time you venture outdoors you see these magnificent peaks. The Old Town lies between two smaller mountains, the Monchsberg and the Kapuzinerberg, and is bisected by the River Salzach. It is a city that dates back to the 8th century. It owes its architectural heritage to the Prince-Archbishops who ruled it as an independent state, and who had both religious and temporal powers. It owes its cultural heritage to Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, who was born here, and lived here until his final move to Vienna in 1781.

Perhaps the best way to see the city, and also experience its history, is to first visit the many buildings and monuments created by the Prince-Archbishops, and then visit the sites devoted to Mozart. It was within the Salzburg of the Archbishops that Mozart lived, and you can see the influence that the city had on him, both in his music and in his life. In the process you can also experience the city as a whole, which also served as the setting for “The Sound of Music” in 1962.

The first stop on this historical quest is the massive Festung Hohensalzburg. This fortress rises up on a hill, dominates the old quarter, and provides a gothic counterweight to the baroque buildings below. Construction was begun in 1077, and the castle served as the residence of the Prince-Archbishops until the end of the 15th century. Access is by funicular railroad, or for the athletically inclined, by way of several hiking paths. Once at the top, a magnificent view of the town and the surrounding mountains greets you. The tour of the state apartments gives you an appreciation for the lifestyles of the Archbishops during the middle ages. Two museums are also included in the tour. One, the Burgmuseum, is notable for its collection of medieval torture instruments. The other, the Rainermuseum, has displays of military armaments from medieval times until the Second World War.

Having experienced the Salzburg of the middle ages, you are now ready to descend from the medieval fortress and enter the world of the Baroque. Salzburg has many beautifully preserved Baroque buildings, and in keeping with our historical theme we will now visit the Residenz Palace. This is where the Prince-Archbishops lived after quitting the Hohensalzburg. The most important work on the palace was commissioned by Prince Archbishop Dietrich von Raitenau in the late 16th and early 17th centuries. Once again you can tour state apartments, but this time you are impressed by the spaciousness of the rooms and the lavishness of the décor. Baroque paintings line the walls, along with rich tapestries. Elegant furniture and furnishings fill the rooms. A well done audio tour provides the historical details of each chamber.

The young Mozart performed quite frequently at the Residenz, and it was in the council chambers that he gave his first concert at the age of six. Mozart lived in Salzburg from his birth in 1756 until he fled the city for good in 1781. Although Mozart was not always happy living in the town of his birth, his legacy can be seen everywhere. He composed many of his works here, particularly while in the employ of the Prince-Archbishop Colloredo as court musician.

You can visit the house in which Mozart was born, but the most interesting Mozart site in Salzburg is the Mozart Residence, where Leopold Mozart, Wolfgang’s father, moved his growing family in 1773. It was here that Wolfgang composed numerous symphonies, concertos, and serenades. The rooms are large and airy, and you get a sense of how the Mozart family lived, worked, and played music together. The museum has an excellent audio system that guides you through the various rooms, and informs you about the life and work of Mozart, all the while playing background extracts from the composer’s work. Of particular interest are the concert travels of Wolfgang and his sister Maria Anna, or “Nannerl” as she was called; and film at the end that recaps Mozart’s career in his native city.

There are many other things to do in Salzburg, not the least of which are concerts. We chose to end our stay by visiting the Schlosskirche Mirabelle, a small church on the Mirabellplatz. Here we listened to a local duo performing several pieces for violin and piano, including Mozart’s Sonata for violin and piano number 18 in G major. The acoustics were impeccable and the two musicians very, very good. We followed this with a walk in the beautiful Mirabelle Gardens. With the Alps in the background, and the baroque architecture of the Prince-Archbishops surrounding us, the sense of being transported back to the time of Mozart was complete.

**All Photos by Michael Norris

If You Go

The Festung Hohensalzburg

Hours: Jan– Apr, Oct – Dec: 9:00 AM – 5:00 PM,

May – Jun, Sep: 9:00 AM – 6:00 PM,

Jul – Aug: 9:00 AM – 7:00 PM

Last admission is 30 minutes before close.

Prices: Adults 10€, Reduced 9.10€, Children (6-14) 5.70€, Children’s/Teen Groups 5.20€, Family ticket 23.10€

Residenz Palace  (Old Residenz) Residenz Platz 1.

Hours: 10 AM – 5:00 PM. Closed for the two weeks before Easter.

Prices: Adults 7.30€, Children 2.50€

Mozart Residence (Mozart-Wohnhaus) Makartplatz 8.

Hours: Every day from 9:00 AM – 6:00 PM. July and August until 7:00 PM

Prices Adults and Children 5.50€

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