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February 2007
Most people have no idea Sardinia is an island off the west coast of I However, when attempting to visit places that are off-the-beaten-path several questions must be answered and the solutions are not always easy to find. How do you get there? Where do you stay, how do you get around and what is there to do? So many unknowns become unsolvable hurdles for some tourists. The independent traveler, however, relishes such challenges because finding answers to the above questions becomes part of the travel experience. Several airlines fly to Sardinia from various European and Italian cities. The least expensive mode of transportation, however, involved taking an overnight ferry from the port of Civitavecchia, just outside of Rome. Trains run between Rome and Civitavecchia several times daily. Least expensive is a bit misleading, because although our trip took a bit longer than one of the many flights, it was definitely more luxurious. The room had two comfy bunk beds, an ensuite bathroom with toilet and shower as well as adequate storage space for our backpacks. Most enjoyable of all was the lounge, a place were you could stretch out your legs, partake in several different types of beverages and enjoy conversation around a table. After an unbelievably satisfying night of sleep, we awoke on the northeastern coast of Sardinia in the port city of Olbia. Although bus service is available throughout the island, it is recommended that your rent a car in order to explore the island. Our intensive internet search located a campground called Porto Sosalinos approximately two hours south of Olbia. It was close to the beach and offered a dizzying array of potential activi When we arrived, we immediately met Donatella, the campground manager. Donatella proved to be an encyclopedia of information and knowledge about the campground, the surrounding area and did everything possible to enhance our visit. The campground itself exceeded our expectations. The campground offers three different types of accommodations. The first choice is a bungalow, which has two bedrooms, a full bathroom, a kitchenette and living room plus a spacious balcony with a picnic table. The bungalow can accommodate a minimum of two people and a maximum of eight. The floors and walls were all wood lined. The second choice is called a caravan and seems to be rather popular in Europe. It is basically small travel trailer connected to a tent. The third choice is the Indian and European style tents. Which is Indian or European was a distinction beyond my comprehension but nevertheless, these were very comfortable. Each had two cots, two windows, a wardrobe closet, electricity, and an oriental rug on the floor with a picnic table outside. All the tents were located in shaded areas. As mentioned, the bungalows had their own bathrooms and showers. The rest of the campers utilized three bath/shower complexes scattered throughout the campground. The facilities were clean, in good working order and were never too crowded. Be forewarned, however, that the showers are enclosed by shoulder height walls and were outdoors. Modest ladies might hope they are not showering next to a seven foot tall Italian basketball player. The nerve center of the complex included the camp office and a giant outdoor canopy which covered an incredible lounge, bar and eating area. The entire floor was covered with gravel but it was raked daily and meticulously maintained. Conveniently placed chairs, couches and hammocks provided plenty of areas to relax, enjoy an ice cold beer, a glass of wine and Our primary reason for visiting Sardinia was the beaches. Two beaches are located just two hundred yards away from the campground. One is quite small approximately 50 feet wide and fifteen feet deep. The second is much larger with plenty of room for any beach activity and it even had a beach bar available. Both were covered with soft sand and as expected, the water was clean and clear. The next day Donatella directed us north about three miles to Comune di Orosei or Parco Biderosa which is similar to a state park. We had to pay a nominal entrance fee and then proceeded to drive through a pine forest, past a lake on a rather rough road long enough that we began to question whether or not we understood our directions. We finally arrived at a beautiful and sparsely used beach area that was perfect for picnicking, throwing Frisbees, swimming and generally enjoying a great day on the beach. No facilities of any type were available so bring water, drinks and food. One of the activities we hoped to enjoy was an all day boat trip. South of our campground, there is a twenty-five mile stretch of coast that has extremely high cliffs and such rugged terrain, it is inaccessible by land unless one wants to make a difficult, several hour hike. We expressed our desire to Donatella and were informed we needed a larger group than ours and generally the boats did not run this late in the season. Although we were disappointed, we understood the circumstances. A couple hours later, however, Donatella approached us explaining she had sp If you do nothing else in Sardinia do not miss this experience. Many of the cliffs rise several hundred feet above the turquoise colored water. The beaches are white as snow (although rocky and shoes are a must). During the day you stop and have the opportunity to swim (the water is chilly) or sunbathe at a minimum of three beaches, tour a cave and boat through several water level grottos, caves and inlets. The entire day was visually spectacular. Adding to our enjoyment were our fellow campers. Our new best friends included a Brazilian family, a couple from Switzerland and Germany as well as some Brits. One of the great rewards of independent travel is the opportunity to interact, no matter how briefly, with other travelers from around the globe. During the summer, several other activities are available. They include kitesurfing, trekking, canyoning, free climbing, bungee jumping, scuba diving and water skiing. Most of these activities are provided by offsite companies but based on our limited experience with the boat trip, we feel confident competent guides will ensure your activity will be a success. Remember, however, that any activity takes time to arrange so give Donatella adequate time to make arrangements for you. Although it is only a few hours from mainland Italy, Sardinia provides insight into another side of Italian culture. Of course, the enjoyment of food and wine and good conversation is still apparent, but the crowds are many times smaller, the pace is anything but frantic, the food and drink offer a different array of flavors. This “hidden gem” is an experience not to be missed. If You Go Porto Sosalinos www.portososalinos.it Phone: 39-0784-91044 Mobile: 39-339-1330188 **During the peak season (June—August) there is a minimum stay of one week and guests must provide their own bedding. **All photos by Sharon Miller
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taly and is in fact part of Italy. Situated about 200 miles southwest of Rome and measuring approximately 150 miles north to south and 60 miles east to west, Sardinia is truly a “hidden gem.”
ties, which was just what we were looking for. Unfortunately, upon contacting the campground, we discovered that our arrival during the off-season, would limit the availability of some of the activities.
interaction with other campers. Oriental rugs placed strategically for your feet provided a touch of class. Our daughter, Sharon, exclaimed “this is a backpacker’s paradise”. We had several breakfasts and dinners which featured seafood, lots of pasta and dishes representative of Sardinia. Our only culinary regret was missing their Wednesday night dinner which was a pizza made in an outdoor wood burning oven. The reason we missed this savory delight was a visit to the nearby town of Orosei which was about six miles south. We ate at La Taverna Ristorante Tipico. It offered a very slow laidback outdoor dining experience, excellent food (try the wild boar stew), friendly service and local wines.
oken with every other person in the campsite and everyone agreed to the boat trip the next day.