Trinidad and Tobago

Children Bring Out the Best in Trinidad & Tobago

By Gillan Thoma, Freelance Writer

March 2007

As the plane descended over the island of Trinidad and crossed its Caroni Plain, I pee Boats docked on the sand of one of the beautiful beaches in Tobago. red over the dark, curly head of my five year old. His first flight. He marvelled as the land below drew closer. The leafy vegetation beneath zoomed nearer, more distinct. I pointed out to him the mango trees with its long, narrow shiny leaves, the banana’s four foot long broad ones, the papaya: star-like on long stems and of course the very familiar coconut palms that he could recognize on his own.

When the doors opened, it was like a wave, a sea wave – hot, moist air rushed in and engulfed us. My limbs immediately loosened. I relaxed, even though there was the long line ahead at Customs and we had to find our luggage.

“Over here, small man.”

Someone had heard us at the luggage carousel chatting, searching for a blue bag with Thomas The Tank Engine’s beaming face on it.

A while later, outside the terminal, facing a horde of eager taxis, I heard it again.

“Over here, small man.”

I signalled with a shake of my hand and mouthed the words. “No thanks.”

Travelling with a five year old in Trinidad and Tobago was my ticket. It was small man this and small man that. Children seem to bring out the best here. He was called ‘Darling’ and ‘Doodoo’. He brought out smiles on the faces that were already smiling!

Trinidad is a bustling nation, A kiskadee perches on a tree branch at the Caroni Swamp Bird Sanctuary. busy with cars, music and happy people. Together we visited La Brea in the south. The Pitch Lake. He was fascinated. A wondrous lake of soft tar oozing from the bowels of the earth. The smell tingles your nose. Watch out – your car tires will begin to sink when you park for too long. The roads in La Brea belie the worldwide use of this pitch - essential to road asphalt - and as the lake constantly replenishes itself and the land around sits on this phenomenon, it is near impossible to build good roads. So take cavorting in your car as part of the experience – a mini roller coaster ride! Small man loved that.

A spectacular spot to go is the Caroni Swamp Bird Sanctuary. You need to get up really early in the morning for this or brave the mosquitoes and go at evening time. A boat will take you along the Wayama River amidst mangrove trees with their roots arching high above the water. Crabs scuttled about and the highlight is the Scarlet Ibis taking off in an enormous flock from its Trinidadian bedroom to head to Venezuela on the mainland to spend the day. At evening they return to sleep. This is a sight to store and take back with you. The boat creeps through the swamp offering front seat view of the bird’s homing instincts. The sky red with flying birds, their call filling you with awe!

We wandered through the Wild Fowl Trust in the midst of the oil refinery at Pointè-à-Pierre . Trinidad has oil and gas on the land and offshore. This Wild Fowl Trust is a haven. An oasis at Petrotrin, south Trinidad. A conservation area for wild birds. Not only are there paths to follow and birds to spot, but also a beautiful tea and guesthouse called Petrea Place nestled amongst tall palms, mango and immortelle trees with ixora, buttercup and hibiscus shrubs. Meals are served in the large, airy, peaceful dining room, delicately painted in soft green with a life-size mural of a bamboo patch. Or you can eat outside on the veranda where nestled on each tropically motif-ed tablecloth is a bowl of fresh local flowers. This L-shaped veranda is truly wide – I didn’t have a tape measure with me but it’s some 20 feet deep.

The view overlooking a village on a hike through the Tobago Forest Reserve.

If a downpour of rain happens (as it often can do at noon) and you’re on the veranda – Don’t worry man. Yuh cyah get wet under dere. (You can’t get wet under there). Just carry on eating and sipping your rum and coke, tea, fresh guava, soursop or pineapple juice and absorb the experience. The rooms at Petrea Place are named after birds and ducks found in the wild fowl sanctuary and styled with a décor to match. Names like Anhinga (green colour scheme) and Yellow Oriole. A continental breakfast is included, as well as laundry facilities.

However, our goal was the sister island of Tobago. We took the ferry from the docks in Port of Spain, but it’s just twenty minutes by plane from Piarco Airport. The ferry ride is two hours. Once we docked and disembarked (that took a little while), within half an hour we were at our destination – Store Bay and our home for a week - Golden Thistle Hotel. This gem is cosily tucked down a quiet, picturesque lane, yet it’s so close to everything on this tranquil, unspoilt island. Minutes from the airport – in fact, you can walk from the terminal. Golden Thistle is walking distance from restaurants, car rentals, banks, clothes and gift shopping boutiques, as well as groceries. On entering the first courtyard, my eyes were drawn to the flower boxes holding red Ixora shrubs – a beautiful welcome. A perfect start to a wonderful relaxing stay at this super friendly, family oriented hotel. Our room was spacious with large comfortable beds, ensuite bathroom and a kitchenette complete with a dining set – just the right accessories for travelling with a little one. I could make peanut butter sandwiches or macaroni and cheese anytime!

We enjoyed the pool and surrounding inner courtyard immensely. There are garden benches where we could curl up to Watching the sunset through the palm trees is the perfect way to end a day on Tobago. read or chat with other guests. Everything here aids you in slowing down, unwinding, taking it easy – the gentle rustling of the trees, the singing of the birds, the unhurried pace of the staff as they offer service with genuinely happy smiles. The food was delicious too. Local dishes that tasted as if your mother made it, served under a roofed, open air dining patio, where we lingered after our meal and played cards and board games. There’s a pool table beckoning on another corner of this 36- room haven. It’s like what I imagine vacation used to be like before the wave of commercialized hoopla drowned the simplest holiday.

Swimming in the warm waters, romping on the fine golden sand, taking in the glass-bottomed boat ride to Bucco Reef and diving in the Coral Gardens, plus the Nylon Pool was simply ahh! Nylon Pool is an area a distance from shore where the water becomes shallow enough for one to walk around. Swimming there, coating yourself with its bed of ground coral is fabled to take ten years away from you!

At Bucco Reef, the Coral Gardens invite you to experience snorkelling with the colour parade of underwater sea life. Small man got his own personal guide. If you don’t believe in the purifying properties of seawater, buy or rent your own snorkelling gear and water sandals for this rendezvous. Pulling from a communal basket, searching for your size may or may not work for you.

Pigeon Point is another excellent place for swimming as well as at Mount Irvine Hotel. By car we visited Bacolet Bay overlooked by Bacolet Bay Beach Hotel. It’s on the south coast. The surf here is just right for the small fry – big enough waves to excite but not to overwhelm. Almond trees dot the beach giving ample shade.

Tobago Forest Reserve is one of the oldest nature reserves – thick, virgin, tropical rain forest. It makes an awesome hike! Small man loved it.

**All Photos by Gillian Thomas