Bungle Bungles

Almost Bungled in Western Australia
By Joanne Lane, Freelance Writer

May 2007

Waves of water lap at the side of our car where we have stalled in a meter dee The worn-out 4WD vehicles take a much needed rest after plowing through several low water crossings. p creek crossing. It swirls around us hinting at crocodiles in the shadows of trees groaning in the forty-degree heat outside.

The air conditioning dies and we start to sweat in our seats as the key turns and the engine makes a noise like a dying animal gasping for its last breath. It's a few moments of anguished and prolonged silence broken only by the cry of a wedgetail eagle somewhere above.

We'd only just seen a good Samaritan towing a car that had burnt out its clutch in one of the crossings.

Finally, somehow the car restarts with a splutter, we bunny hop through the rest of the water and eventually arrive at the ranger station at the entrance to the Bungle Bungles in north Western Australia. Apart from the ranger the only other traveler is a middle-aged man with a new Prado who turns and asks, "Have you ever done anything like that?"

It's like a movie moment from Seven, Speed or a similar box office thriller when the hero's are asked to downplay their own experiences.

We calmly explain our predicament, having already wiped away our sweat and fear, and compare notes about the dozen creek crossings of varying depths, the rocky bone jangling corrugated roads and the three hour slog to travel just 50 kilometers.

The man's relief shows. They've just bought the Prado and being from the Gold Coast in Queensland are a long way from home. "The wife" he says is sick from the fumes of a spilt citronella lamp in the car and is at the bathroom.

She The orange and black domes rise from the earth and are reflected in a stream below. appears a few moments later and tells me they will be slumming it tonight sleeping in the car. They left their caravan at Turkey Creek, the only roadhouse nearby with the usual outback contingent of aboriginal children on bicycles, locked petrol pumps to discourage stealing, truck drivers and hippie travelers.

We wave them off promising to share detergent, dishcloths and any other things they might need at the campsite.

The Bungle Bungles or Purnululu (meaning sandstone) National Park has only been opened to tourism for 20 years. Prior to 1982 only drovers, helicopter pilots and local Aboriginal people knew about it until it was featured on a television documentary.

It was then "discovered" by tourism and in 1987 the 210,000-hectare park was opened, and it now rates as one of the top Kimberley attractions.

With its renowned 360 million year old striking sandstone domes striped with orange and grey bands you cannot help but feel privileged to be here. These domes have been sculptured by wind, rain and flowing water.

It's only the beginning of the dry season so there are not too many other tourists and the rough access road and the remoteness of the area - the rangers camp in here in shifts - leaves only 4wd enthusiasts to enjoy the area.

Besides the Bungle Bungles are usually viewed from the air from scenic flight opera Snakes are a common sight while hiking at the Froghole Gorge. tors at Kununurra, Turkey Creek, Halls Creek or within the national park itself, so there are not too many other visitors on the ground level.

Once you reach the ranger station the track becomes a quite well graded dirt road that skirts the Bungle Bungle massif for over 50 kilometers. There are still some creek crossings but they are usually quite shallow and easily crossed.

Apart from the driving, or a flight over the Bungle Bungles, most time spent in the Bungle Bungles is on foot. We laced up our boots and headed east of the ranger station to the fabulous short walks to Echidna Chasm and Froghole Gorge.

The walk through Echidna Chasm follows a pebbly river bed through an entrance in the rock littered with green palms to an increasingly narrow chasm that is eventually only little more than an arm span wide. Large but climbable boulders litter the narrow walk, sun filters down in soft pink light from above and any noise echoes nervously around off the over 100m high cliffs. It is spectacular.

Nearby is Froghole Gorge, a temporary pool at the base of a seasonal waterfall, named after the rockhole frogs that crowd the sandy shores. There are also water snakes, butterflies, aquatic insects and lizards. The mini palms trail is a longer 5 kilometer return track through woodland featuring the plant life of the plains and gorge.

To the western side of the ranger station are the Cathedral and Piccaninny Gorges and fabulous views of the lumpy, strangely domed sandstone hills.

Piccaninny Gorge is an overnight hike but most people either hike the first 7 kilometers along Piccaninny Creek to the mouth of the gorge or wander briefly into see the dry creek bed with its rocky, curving and unusual floor.

The entrance to the Echnidna chasm.

The walk to Cathedral Gorge is easier and winds along ledges that skirt small waterholes before entering the gorge itself. This is a peaceful place with a tranquil pool reflecting the soaring sandstone domes that form the walls of a natural amphitheatre.

Before heading back along the domes trail to get a closer look at what makes up the Bungle Bungles we spot our friends from the ranger station.

They greet us like old friends saying we should be on a first name basis by now. We had not seen them at the campsite. But their "slumming" experience had not gone well. "The wife" had slept poorly on her mattress that lost air during the night and crows had raided their food store while they were out during the day. Fortunately some German tourists fed them the first night and today someone gave them bread and cheese.

It all seemed a somewhat traumatic experience that they had enjoyed despite the setbacks.

Two days later we head back out on the access road through the rolling hills littered with termite mounds, paperbark trees and soaring eagles. Just when I think the track is really not so bad we sputter through one of the creek crossings. I spare a thought for our new friends. The Bungle Bungles is not a place you want something to go wrong. The car catches and we surge through. We never did find out their names…

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ROAD CONDITIONS AND PARK ENTRY

The park is closed from January 1 - March 31 for the wet season. The only petrol is 50 kilometers away at Turkey Creek, or 100 kilometers at Halls Creek. Travelers are advised to have long range tanks or a jerry can for additional emergency fuel. The drive is less than 300 kilometers return to Turkey Creek if you visit both the east and west ends of the park, so plan accordingly taking into account extra fuel for rough conditions. You can only use gas stoves between 1 April - 15 May and 15 September - 31 December. Park fees are $9 per vehicle, camping is $9 per person per night. However an annual access ticket is just $17.

DRIVING ADVICE

It is best to check the condition of the access road immediately prior to your trip as it can change dramatically. Always check the depth of creek crossings before proceeding. Most of the crossings have a gauge beside them. If the water is deep some petrol car drivers may consider rigging up a tarpaulin across the front of their car to stop water from splashing into the engine. Likewise they can even disconnect the fan belt prior to the crossing and reconnect it immediately afterwards.

Drivers should slow before entering water, switch to low range if deemed necessary and choose a gear that will take care of the roughest part of the drive. Through the water maintain revolutions and speed, try to avoid changing gears unless necessary.

GETTING THERE

The access road to the Bungle Bungles is 200km south of Kununurra on the road to Broome, 100 kilometers north of Halls Creek. The highway is well-conditioned tarmac but you need a 4wd for the track and must engage 4wd all the way.

Depending on the water crossings and road conditions it can take up to six hours to cover the 53 kilometers from the highway to the ranger station. Inside the park the track is better maintained. Most people cover everything within 2 or 3 days but allow more time if you hike to Piccaninny Gorge.

For travelers without a 4wd, tour groups do visit the area. Ask at the Kununurra tourist information centre or a backpackers or at the Turkey Creek roadhouse.

FURTHER INFORMATION

Halls Creek Tourist Information Centre: open from May - September, Halls Creek

Ph (08) 9168 6007

Kununurra Visitor Centre

Ph (08) 9168 1177

Department of Conservation and Land Management (CALM), Kununurra

Ph (08) 9168 0200

West Australian Tourist Centre, Perth

Ph (08) 9483 1111