Cocolores

Montezuma's Cocolores Restaurant is "Unforgettably Delicious" $$

By Fawn McManigal, Freelance Writer

June 2007

Cocolores deserves mention as our favorite restaurant in Montezuma; and quite possibly the entire country. Perhaps the playfully romantic ambiance enticed us. Or maybe it was the salty-beachside breeze flirting with the aroma of Eastern spices that teased. Possibly the infiltration of world music proposing exoticism beyond Montezuma, Costa Rica seduced us. Whatever is was; we are still captivated.

On a leisurely-evening stroll, my sweetie and I stop to inquire on the price of a local hostel. The temperature is perfect; the breeze slightly cool. The reception desk of the hostel sits at the entrance of an obscure walkway. What catches our attention is a sign displaying, in bright colorful letters, the name Cocolores. Beach ward past the hostel, our periphery catches the resemblance of giant, old-fashioned Christmas lights. Large, multi-colored lamps hover above table tops of an open-air establishment. We succumb to this welcoming décor, abandoning the price check on the hostel.

We meander through the palm trees on a sandy path, lit by sparse ground lighting. The seating area has no division between indoors and out, only a wooden roof covering several of the tables near an enclosed kitchen. Our presence excites a petite-young-European hostess who motions us to follow her toward the natural sound of crashing waves. The sand under foot has brought us to, through, and beyond the Christmas lights toward one of three candle-lit tables perched beneath the stars.

Luminaries loosely define the border between eatery and ocean, shedding a warm glow on the evening’s entertainment of hermit crabs. Some may dislike these house-hauling crustaceans but we have come to prefer their presence. On occasion we’ll borrow a couple hermits and race them on the table while waiting for a meal. Usually though, they hold our attention quite nicely without such interference.

Our waiter greets us with simple, yet clear English; maybe our recent purchase of local Rasta attire has made us look too American. Fortunately, our transcontinental server brought skills from another land, satisfying our pampered standard of prompt and plentiful service. Only on occasion do we experience his prolonged absence, causing us to question our own existence. If you’ve been in Costa Rica for any length of time, the speed with which things are done has tested your patience. It took a few meals to figure out that it is not customary for the wait staff to bring your bill, if you don’t ask—you’ll never get it.

The menu offers ethnic fares embracing influences from France, India, the Mediterranean, and of course, Costa Rica. An entire week of casados has slain our culinary exploration. (Casados is a mixed plate consisting of fish, chicken or beef and several sides: beans, rice, slaw, potatoes or green salad.) A good meal, easy to translate, but seven days in a row can wreak havoc on enthusiasm. Everything on the menu sounds delicious. I can’t decide between the Pineapple Chicken and the Banana Curry Chicken.

“Banana Curry is good for me,” our server answers without hesitation. Enough said. My sweetheart orders the Chicken in Mushroom Sauce. Taste buds travel through a bouquet of flavors so numerous, it would be criminal to disrupt enjoyment by identifying each one; yet I can’t ignore the distinct flavors of banana, cinnamon, and the kick-of curry. My own enjoyment makes it difficult to reposition my fork over Rich’s plate. His Chicken in Mushroom Sauce, swimming in thick wine sauce, is absolutely divine.

Once in the care of the restaurant, Cocolores leaves only one thing to be desired; more.

Granted, a shoestring budget mandates that more elaborate affairs are passed. Dinner for two, including an appetizer and beverages consumed 20,000 colones: a mere forty US dollars. Relaxation among the palm trees, a stones throw from the Pacific Ocean, and eating some of the best food my palate has ever tasted − seemed well worth it. It’s just a shame that our itinerary propelled us from Montezuma the next day; because, “Banana Curry is really good for me.”

If you go

Cocolores

Montezuma, Costa Rica

642-0348

Hours

2-9:30PM

* Reservations recommended during peek hours