Culinary Oasis in Rome

A Culinary Oasis in Rome's Chaos $$$

By Carol Stigger, Freelance Writer

January 2006

Massimo d’ Azeglio is a peaceful, palate-pleasing restaurant just a block removed from the convergence of Termini train station, both Metro lines, beggars, bus bays, pickpockets, taxis, and tour groups. The waiters understand that you may The elegant dining room and excellent cuisine are pleasures not to be missed while in Rome. have only an hour between trains or time for a traditional Italian three-hour meal. The dining room, which can seat 200, has generous space between tables and niches for more intimate dining. The waiters move like a well-drilled platoon, and any chaos that may ensue from a capacity crowd is all behind the scenes. Walnut paneling dates from the restaurant’s 1875 founding, and the art is from that more graceful era when the restaurant’s namesake, renowned Italian statesman and artist, was a household word among the elite.

The restaurant and hotel on its upper floors have been owned and managed by five generations of the Bettoja family. The current president’s wife coaxed recipes from Italy’s oldest families, including an ancient specialty from northern Italy, Gran Bollit --. boiled meat and vegetables served with a fruit mustard. Ristorante Massimo d’ Azeglio is the only restaurant in Rome offering this hearty dish and serves it throughout the cold season. In warmer seasons, the catch of the day is never disappointing. The head chef would rather retire than serve day-old fish to a Roman or a tourist. Swordfish with a fresh tomato sauce is particularly appealing on a summer day. Served warm, it tastes as refreshing as a splash by one of Rome’s fountains and is a satisfying encore to an antipasto of smoked goose breast with fruits in season. Pears were in season when I dined there. The chef prepares all desserts except cakes, which are supplied by a local bakery. The panna cotta, crème custard covered in fruit, is equaled in Rome only by Il Giardino Romano in the Jewish Ghetto. The dessert trolley has other tempting choices ranging from tiramisu to cheese and fresh fruit and the chef’s inspirations, which change according to the season, the day’s weather report, and intuition.

The Bettoja’s are wine connoisseurs. Wine is tasted and approved by the family before being offered to patrons. During the German occupation of WWII, the family bricked up a room in the wine cellar to protect their best wines. The Germans drank the rest of their 30,000 bottles. In addition to saving 100-year-old wines, the family saved lives by audaciously hiding Jews in hotel rooms next to German officers. If you have time, ask to visit the wine cellar; but do not expect to be offered a sample. The wines are reserved for family and posterity. The collection has been appraised, and some bottles have been declared priceless.

The restaurant is accessible for people who use wheelchairs, although the wine cellar is not. The menu is in both Italian and English. Expect to spend 27 Euro for the chef’s four-course meal of the day and more if you order a la carte. Wine begins at 3.50 Euro for a glass of house wine, but connoisseurs should consult with the maitre d’ for the perfect wine to compliment their meal and budget. Leaving the restaurant, turn right to catch your train or hail a taxi, or left to walk off your elegant meal by strolling downhill to the Coliseum.

If You Go

Ristorante Massimo d’Azeglio

18 Via Cavour.

Rome

For reservations, call 06.481.41.01.

**All Photos by Carol Stigger