Backroads of Texas

Discover the Treasures of Texas While Driving the Backroads
By Don Miller, Staff Writer

Willie Nelson once sang "On the road again, going places where I've never been". Have you ever thought how great it would be to jump into your car, leave your daily routine (a Nestled on the corner of the town square, The Country Place Hotel charmed its way into our hearts. nd troubles) behind and just drive? No plans, no destination. Be as free as the wind. On a beautiful Saturday during August my wife and I decided to do exactly that. Our only rule was to stay off the major highways if at all possible and to stop whenever we felt like it. In one day, we "discovered" four unique destinations with appeal to a wide variety of people.

One and a half hours west of downtown Houston, the terrain begins to change from flat coastal prairie to rolling hills. Located a few miles north of Interstate 10 (take the Sealy or Columbus exits), lies the tiny hamlet of New Ulm. Fortunately, we did not blink or we would have missed the sign advertising The Falls Golf Resort and Club. Although we have virtually no interest in golf, the fact a golf resort existed in this rural area intrigued us. Following the signs we arrived at The Falls within a few minutes. The first thing we noticed was they apparently sell lots to potential residents or those wanting a weekend getaway. Secondly, there were no crowds which appealed to us. Thinking this must be some country course with limited funds for maintenance, we expected the fairways and greens (especially in hot, dry August) to be parched and in generally poor condition. Actually, they appeared to be in great condition and the course and facilities in excellent shape.

Those wishing to spend the night can stay in villas ranging from $130 to $170 a night for a double. The Inn also provides accommodations and resembles a motel. Their web site has a lot of information about green fees, specials, the restaurant and bar, hours and most importantly----directions. The Falls would be a great weekend or vacation for people wishing to play golf in a relaxed, picturesque, uncrowded, beautiful environment.

Little did we know that a few miles west, the small town of Fayetteville (population less than 300) would be such a pleasant surprise. Stopping at the town square (which is almost the entire town), we noticed an old hotel almost hidden in the corner of the square. Assuming the building was unoccupied (who would expect an active hotel in a town of 300), we carefully opened the front door. WOW!! What a surprise and visual treat. Kathleen, the hostess, warmly greeted us and graciously gave us a tour of the property wit The Orsak's Cafe is a popular spot for both lunch and dinner. h lots of information. The 103 year old Country Place Hotel is owned by Maryann and Clovis Heimsath. It is listed on the National Register of Historic Places and has been restored according to the guidelines of the Texas Historic Commission.

Eight beautiful rooms, each with a private bathroom, await visitors. Each room is named for a small German or Czech community surrounding Fayetteville. Upstairs a parlor leads to a wide porch overlooking the town square. Another parlor is located downstairs as well as a large dining area and modern kitchen. The back of the first floor has a large room decorated with colorful artwork and the room can be rented for receptions and meetings. Pictures of the rooms and room rates (which range from $95 to $150 per night) are available on the internet. Included in the cost is a full breakfast of fruit and fruit juice, cereal or granola with milk or yogurt, a hot dish or eggs and bacon or sausage, toast, coffee or tea and the highlight of the meal--Clovis' famous muffins.

The upstairs balcony looked like a great place to open a bottle of wine, relax and enjoy the solitude of a small town. Afterward, walk 100 feet to Orsak's Cafe for dinner. Orsak's offers good, country food at its best in an informal atmosphere but do not expect candlelight and fine French cuisine.

Fayetteville has a reputation as an antiquing center. Several surrounding communities within a thirty minute drive also are well known for their antique shops. Even if antiques are not your passion (certainly not ours), this community provides a great base for hiking, biking and generally exploring the surrounding area (augmented by wine on the balcony).

Continuing further west for fifteen minutes, you arrive at the town of La Grange (best known as the real location of The Best Little Whorehouse in Texas). Ala The names of the men killed in the Black Bean Massacre are memorialized at Monument Hill in La Grange. s, the bordello has been closed for years but we were headed to Monument Hill and Kreische Brewery State Historical Parks. Leave La Grange on Highway 77 South, cross the Colorado River and the road climbs and climbs for the next few minutes. At the top of this most impressive hill, the road to the right takes you 2/10's of a mile to Monument Hill.

The forty acre site includes modest hiking trails, picnic areas, several important historical monuments and a panoramic view of the Colorado River from a 200 foot high bluff. Much of the historical aspect of the park revolves around the war with Mexico, the history of the individuals who fought and died and a memorial honoring them. Do not miss speaking with the articulate and verbose park ranger who provides an encyclopedic knowledge of Texas History. The most fascinating story (among several) was called "The Black Bean Massacre". Approximately 170 men were captured by the Mexicans and were taken back to Mexico. An escape occurred with most of the men being recaptured within a few days. This so enraged the Mexican leader, he ordered 170 beans to be placed in a container. Seventeen were black, the rest were white. Those selecting the black beans were immediately executed.

The rest of the park includes the Kreische home and Brewery. Kreische was a stonemason in Germany and he utilized those skills in Texas. Many early Texas homes were small and barely adequate for living. In contrast, Kreische built an impressive, large home, far from town despite the fact that he had to dig all his own stone and provide all his own supplies and tools in the 1840's. Even more impressive, he studied beer making and built a brewery which was quite successful for a number of years. Tours of the house and brewery are available at various times (listed on the web site).

The first half of December on selected evenings, the park holds the Trai The ruins of an old brewery are just one of the attractions at Kreische Brewery State Historical Park. l of Lights. Visitors can experience a trail beautifully decorated with Christmas lights overlooking the lighted town of La Grange. The trail follows the bluff, goes through the Kreische home which is decorated with traditional Christmas trees, wreaths, lamps and candles and entertainment and refreshments are provided. Sounds like a great family holiday trip.

Our final "discovery" remains unexplored. We noticed a sign pointing to a winery in Giddings which is thirty minutes west of Brenham on Highway 290 and about 1 1/4 hours east of Austin. The Lehm Berg Winery is located in the southwest corner of Giddings but unfortunately it had closed minutes before our arrival. Their hours are Monday through Friday noon to 5:00 p.m., Saturday 11:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. and Sunday noon to 5:00 p.m.

In a single day, we visited a golf resort, a bed and breakfast type hotel, a historical site and almost a winery. Although our newsletter frequently features overseas destinations, many treasures are located in our own backyard. The United States offers an infinite number of possible places to visit and many surprises--especially on the back roads. Get off the couch, get on the road again, explore America and be surprised by what you find.

If You Go

The Falls Golf Resort and Club

1750 North Falls Drive

New Ulm, Texas 78950

979-992-3123 or 281-220-2609

www.thefallsresort.com

Country Place Hotel

Clovis & Maryann Heimsath,

P.O. Box 504

Fayetteville, Texas 78940

Reservations and Information 979-966-7771

maryann@countryplacehotel.com