Tips for Enjoying the Tango in Argentina

ByTroy Herrick, Freelance Writer

September 2007

Tango is an inseparable part of the Buenos Aires social fabric. Just about anywhere in the city where crowds gather, there is sure to be at least one well-dressed couple dancing the tango (and then passing the hat around).

One exhibition included young dancers between the ages of 8-13 years. I was quite impressed by how gracefully they toured the dance floor (actually a sidewalk) at such a tender age.

Tango is more than just dance – it is a style of music and song. Tango singers are also frequently found where crowds gather. The men, in particular, style themselves after the most famous tango singer of them all - Carlos Gardel.

For those interested in learning more about tango in Buenos Aires, here is a one-day crash course.

La Boca – The Birthplace of Tango

The Buenos Aires barrio of La Boca has an almost festive appearance - lively, colorful and musical. First time visitors are literally hit between the eyes by the bright colors on the exterior of the homes and shops. Furthermore tango music seemingly emanates from just about every open door and window.

Tango dancers and singers are often found at intervals along Calle Caminito. Don’t be surprised if one of them tries to grab you for a picture (which you must then pay for).

Working class immigrants, primarily single men, first settled the La Boca area in the late 19th century. Tango originated in the local bars and brothels as these were often the only places where lonely men could meet single women.

This storied history is still celebrated today. A multitude of larger-than-life cartoon figures depicting typical residents of the time and ladies-of-the-evening adorn many of La Boca’s buildings. These characters peer out from doorways and windows or else congregate on second floor balconies to look down at you.

The Tango Museum (Museo del Tango)

The exhibits are in Spanish only. However visitors should be able to get the gist of how tango has evolved over the last 120 years into the sensual art form of today. The lives of many of the most famous tango personalities through the years are also highlighted.

A Tango Show

Tango shows abound in Buenos Aires and the prices can be quite expensive. Fortunately a reasonably priced tango show costing 50 pesos ($17) is available in the Bodega at the Café Tortoni.

This tango show focuses on the evolution of the art form. The performance opens with a series of bar and brothel scenes. The men dress as gangsters and the women dress as ladies-of-the-evening.

As the show progresses, both the dancing and the costumes become more refined and sensual. There is even a scene with a willowy female tango dancer in silhouette.

Tango singing is interspersed throughout the performance.

Café Tortoni has been around for over 100 years in Buenos Aires. Every famous Argentine has likely visited this elegantly furnished establishment at least once - including many tango personalities.

In the far right hand corner of the café sits a group of life-sized wax figures (provided by Madame Tussaud’s Wax Museum in London) including Carlos Gardel. Feel free to join them for a cup of espresso and have your picture taken. Just remember to bring your camera.

Review Your Tango Adventure Over Dinner

Argentines eat dinner late – usually after 10 pm. Your tango show will also conclude at about the same time. Why not review your tango adventure over another Argentine tradition – the barbeque known as the “parrilla”.

Walk two blocks up the street to the Grill Oriente where two of you can enjoy a hot plate (about 10 by 12 square inches) piled high with a mixture of beef and pork steak, beef and pork ribs, chicken, two different types of sausage and small samples of  beef kidney and offal. Two salsas and bread are also included. Salad, mineral water and a bottle of house wine are extras. This feast can be yours for only 72.80 pesos ($25) not including the tip.

**All photos by Troy Herrick

If you go

La Boca – take bus #29 to the end of the route. Exit the bus when you see the building labeled “Caminito”. Buses cost 0.80 pesos per ride.

The Tango Museum (Museo del Tango)

Av de Mayo 833 – 1st floor

Subte A (Subway Line A) – Piedras

Admission: 5 pesos per person

Café Tortoni

825 Av de Mayo

Subte A (Subway Line A) – Piedras

Book your tickets early because seating is determined by the order of booking – with 4 people per table.  Photography is permitted.

Grill Oriente

Av de Mayo 999, BA

Subte C (Subway Line C) – Av de Mayo

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